
	Where results make sense

Topic: Action Directe (climb)

Related Topics

affirmative action

group action

action potential

strike action

action philosophy

action movies

direct action

National Action Party Mexico

Live action role playing game

action film

Action physics

Canadian Action Party

In the News (Sun 29 Nov 09)

Northern Trust

Marvin Harrison

Peter Chernin

Gary Locke

Match Play

Penelope Cruz

Mickey Rourke

AR Rahman

Danny Boyle

Hugh Jackman

	Training for Climbing - Spadout
		Climbing Gyms can be a highway to adding the strength and endurance needed to crank up the grade for next season.
		Climb up to the height of the first quickdraw at your gym and clip this quickdraw.
		If you have been climbing in the gym for a while and are constantly falling off those steep climbs (even though the holds are really good) you are being effected by the barn door effect.
	www.spadout.com /wiki/index.php/Training_for_Climbing (2454 words)

	SPORT CLIMBING INFO - Zolum
		To "lead" a sport climb is to climb a route with a rope tied to the climbing harness with the loose end handled by the belayer.
		In some climbing areas, notably in the United Kingdom, sport climbing is frowned upon, because many climbers believe that the permanent placing of bolts in mountainous and sea-cliff areas detracts from the wilderness experience, damages the rock, or devalues the achievements of the first ascensionist who climbed the route by placing their own protection.
		Sport climbing is a relatively modern branch of the sport, becoming popular in the US during the 1980s, other places a little earlier or later.
	us.zolum.com /showarticles/3/82/sport-climbing-info (1077 words)

	(video) Guy runs up a 400ft vertical wall without support (godly) (reddit.com)
		Climbs are graded by difficulty, the harder the climb you can do, the more respect you get.
		I'd reccommend this of Iker Pou on Action Directe, and this of a crazily long and overhanging route somewhere.
		Climbs at the 5.10 through 5.15 level are subdivided a through d, so a 5.10c is harder than a 5.10a, but not as difficult as a 5.11a.
	reddit.com /info/g0we/comments (3194 words)

	Fall of the Phantom Lord
		Long, multiday climbs, particularly those found on big walls like Yosemite Valley's El Capitan, often mix free- and aid-climbing; a superior climber may be able to "free" what a less experienced climber must "aid." Landmarks in climbing occur when classic routes--long believed to require aid--finally "go free," or surrender entirely to a free ascent.
		Many credit their astonishing success to the intense training afforded by gym climbing, continuing refinements in equipment and technique, and perhaps most important, a mental edge possessed by these young climbers: they are not intimidated by numerical ratings; they are not afraid to try and fail.
		He regards each climb as a monument, not only to its creator but to the climbers of generations past who attempted the route unsuccessfully--with equal boldness but inferior technology--as well as to those who follow and attempt the route.
	partners.nytimes.com /books/first/t/todhunter-phantom.html (6661 words)

	Pawn Climbing - [www.pawnclimbing.com] (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-10)
		The contact (finger) strength and power that he gained from training on his campus boards helped him greatly in acheiving his goal, which is one of the hardest, most known climbs still today (5.14b) and is very seldom repeated.
		Although the word campus, in climbing, originated from Wolfgang's training devices, it has also become the name for which we call any type of climbing in which no feet are used.
		The first is using a gym wall, or crag, and the second is using a variation of Wolfgang's famous devices, the campus board.
	www.pawnclimbing.com /articles/campusing.shtml (798 words)

	Rock Climbing (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-10)
		His invention of the Abalakov Cam was the first application to climbing of the principle of a constant-angle curved surface The next profound equipment change was the development of crack camming devices.
		His invention of the Abalakov Cam was the first application to climbing of the principle of a constant-angle curved surface, with a cam shape based on the mathematical logarithmic spiral.
		Shipton captured the British public's imagination with a poetic account of the ascent, arguing that climbing with as spare a team as possible was key to apprehending the mountains' sublimity.
	users4.ev1.net /~sanaghan/main/Outdoor_Rec/Rock_Climbing.htm (3121 words)

	Hardest Route in Frankenjura?
		Markus Bock has just redpointed a new route in Germany’s Frankenjura that he says is the hardest climb he has ever done, according to an email posted on www.moonclimbing.com.
		It was bolted 1993 or so, and I have worked it [in] 2003 a bit, 2004 all the autumn, and this year a bit in the spring, and now after Ceüse for minimum 10 days.
		Then you have to climb the hardest part of the route: a six-move 8B [V13] bloc.
	climbing.com /news/hotflashes/frankenjura06 (412 words)

	Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd. - Bios
		Yes—success on Action Directe 9a, Germany in 2005 and Wheel of Life V16, Australia in 2004.
		I have never climbed any route of 5.15, you know, so I cannot say exactly what it is. But, I can imagine a route that is harder than 5.14d, and I think a 5.15a route surely exists.
		Regarding traditional routes, I don’t have enough experience in climbing them to be able to comment on pre-placed gear.
	www.bdel.com /scene/athletes/dai_koyamada.php (367 words)

	Sport climbing - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
		As sport climbing became popular in the 80's and 90's, the emphasis that it places on strength and stamina led to a significant rise in standards among climbers at all levels of skill.
		At some UK climbing areas, sport climbing is frowned upon because many climbers believe that the permanent placing of bolts in mountainous and sea-cliff areas detracts from the wilderness experience, damages the rock, and devalues the achievements of the first ascensionist who climbed in traditional style, placing their own protection.
		Sport climbing takes place on indoor climbing walls and on a limestone and slate cliffs that are unsuited to traditional climbing.
	en.wikipedia.org /wiki/Sport_climbing (1296 words)

	ViewArticel
		Because of this, climbing performances increase faster than before and you need to train very specifically for your aims.
		To be in a top ranking or to climb the hardest routes, you need to be fully concentrated and train right.
		But the best route I've climbed is probably 'Action Directe' and I would very much like to climb 'Just do it' at Smith Rocks because it's such a great line in an amazing setting.
	web.8a.nu /articles/ShowArticle.aspx?ArticleId=1412 (773 words)

	joost.climbing.nl - Bouldering & Climbing
		Action Directe is actually around 12 moves long, significantly shorter than many boulder problems.
		I think that Action is still worth mentioning because it still is one of the hardest routes in the world and probably the 12(?) hardest moves so far.
		Maybe Matt tried it once and found out he couldn’t do it and now he’s pissed off with the route and tries to size it (and other people’s great achievement) down.
	joost.climbing.nl /?p=196 (342 words)

	the diary of a [newbie] rock climber: 01.06
		although the word campus, in climbing, originated from wolfgang's training devices, it has also become the name for which we call any type of climbing in which no feet are used." -- excerpt from pawnclimbing.com
		jared has been climbing for four years and is a great motivator/teacher.
		if climbing is so safe, what's with the news stori...
	www.newclimber.com /climb/2006_01_01_archive.html (502 words)

	FreakClimbing.com - Richard Simpson and his Action Directe: interview - News
		Yes I have always wanted to climb Action Directe, because for me it was the last route to do to follow my hero Ben Moon's footsteps and repeating all the old classics.
		Yes my sequence was the most "direct", I am the onyl person to have climbed the Wolfgang's sequence, it now seems that people got to the right in the middle: it is more moves but easier.
		For me I wanted to climb it the Wolfgang's way in the middle, it was very powerful and direct and probably harder, but for me it's better, it has history.
	www.freakclimbing.com /modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=835 (796 words)

	climbing : Dave Graham (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-10)
		That was an interesting route to climb as well as a kind of a mental change in my life because at that time of life I had just started travelling.
		Action Direct was something I just wanted to do.
		It was a hard route but at the same time it was this old-time desire just to get to Action Direct.
	www.climbandmore.com /climbing,87,0,1,interviews.html (432 words)

	Chin-Ups (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-10)
		ompetitive rope climbing is an event that is closely allied to one-arm chins and front levers.
		t is impossible to arrive at a consensus among climbers as to the extent primordial strength moves such as one-arm pull-ups contribute to one's climbing performance.
		He created - as preparation for his ascent of Action Directe - what has become known as the "campus board" - a slightly overhanging board with a series of horizontal wood strips simulating rock ledges, which he climbed up and down with his feet hanging beneath, sometimes with only one finger of each hand.
	www128.pair.com /r3d4k7/Chinups.html (2587 words)

	Camp4: Dave Graham Gets 4th Ascent of Action Directe (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-10)
		While on a European climbing trip, Dave Graham made the 4th ascent of "Action Directe" at Waldkopf, Frankenjura.
		It was first climbed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991, and has only seen two other ascents before Graham's quick work of the short yet powerful route.
		Unlike its previous ascentionists (Alexander Adler in 1995 and Iker Pou in 2000) who trained specifically for the climb, Graham climbed the route with about a week's work, about 20 tries in 6 days.
	www.camp4.com /news/index.php?newsid=101 (297 words)

	Concerns in Europe January - June 2001 - Amnesty International (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-10)
		Under the decree the body organizing a sanctioned event will be held entirely responsible for the action and may be fined or de-registered if public order is deemed to have been violated.
		He acknowledged that the requested urology examination, the results of which were negative, had been postponed but that this was due to ''social actions in the prison.'' He confirmed that Ibrahim Bah was subject to an order to leave the country and could be removed if intercepted on Belgian territory.
		Furthermore, the court found that Aleksander Kandjov's conduct was considered as an aggravated form of hooliganism ''perpetrated with particular cynicism and impudence'', noting that ''hooliganism committed with impudence...consists of a violation of the established public order by conduct which results in a significant damage to the public order.
	web.amnesty.org /library/index/engeur010032001 (17397 words)

	Rock Wall Climbing (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-10)
		Every indoor rock climbing wall and gym world-wide, rock climbing wall construction, rock climbing training plans, rock climbing competitions, Rock...
		A climbing wall and gym construction company that designs, engineers, and builds the finest climbing walls in the world.
		The climbing wall is brought to you with a standard size vehicle.
	www.worldrockclimbing.com /Climb/rock-wall-climbing.html (193 words)

	planetFear / News / Climbing Roundup
		The ensuing debate over on UKBouldering was mixed, the overall feeling that yes it was newsworthy if only because of the fame and notoriety of the route and the long list of strong climbers who have tried and failed on it.
		As part of the report we stated that Action Directe was the second most repeated f9a in the world after Kinematix at Gorges Du Loup in France which had, at that time, received 9 repeats.
		However, it is being suggested on 8a.nu, a strong voice in the world of sport climbing and route grades, that the route is perhaps over graded.
	www.planetfear.com /news_detail.asp?n_id=5937 (265 words)

	Allgemeine News - Der Japaner Dai Koyamada sichert sich die 7te Begehung von Action Directe
		About Action, I was pretty lucky to get the 6th ascent to be honest, both me and Dai were very close and the day before my ascent he fell at the very last move which motivated me to get it done the day after.
		I had a real battle with Action the conditions have been bad and it’s been really hard to stay motivated whilst sitting around waiting for it to become better.
		I took a warm up go and everything went well, so attempted to climb from the first jug to the end, falling in the very last jump.
	www.sportclimbing.de /detail.php?1025 (605 words)

	Climbing Sitemap - Page 1 (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-10)
		Climbing Magazine is a proud sponsor of the 2nd Annual HERA Ovarian Cancer Climb for Life, September 11-14, 2003 in Salt Lake City, Utah.
		The decision to climb with a sleeping bag is an easy one since most of today’s ultralight bags weigh in under two pounds and pack down smaller than a bread loaf.
		Climbing Magazine?s mission is to inspire people to climb, to seek new challenges, and to learn about the great diversity of our sport.
	spiderbites.primedia.com /plinks/detail_pirt_climbingmag_1.htm (8097 words)

	UKC Forums - DAVE GRAHAM- the worlds strongest climber!
		According to 8a.nu mutant stickman Dave Graham has made the third ascent of Fred Nicole's Dreamtime aka the worlds hardest problem (v15/font 8c) and thus securing his postion as the worlds strongest climber (you can't argue).
		Dave is just a climbing machine- he performs to the highest level wherever he goes.
		He was the first person to climb Action Directe without training specifically for it and downgraded fred nicole's Elfe (9a+) to 8c in five goes.
	www.ukclimbing.com /forums/t.php?t=10802 (236 words)

	Gunks.com: FRANKENJURA
		I soon found out that most of my former buddies donand#8217;t climb anymore but soon hooked up with a new group at the local climbing gym, which provided an excellent winter training ground.
		Formerly I had climbed a lot in the areas near Nuremberg (areas with famous routes like Action Directe, Magnet, Sautanz, and Chasinand#8217; the Trane.) This time we really focused on the Northern Frankenjura, since this is where the new Schwertner guidebook had just been published and we wanted to see all the new areas.
		There is camping in the Baerental, near one of the climbing centers a little bit south of the Wiesenttal.
	www.gunks.com /ubbthreads/showthreaded.php?Number=58429 (1498 words)

	huberbuam (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-10)
		Climbing at the cutting edge is an extremely power-sucking sport - physically and mentally.
		Climbing the world´s hardest routes needs special techniques and enormous power resources.
		The German Wolfgang Güllich was one of the first climbers who transferred training techniques from other, highly developed professional sports to climbing.
	www.huberbuam.de /archiv/en/en11grad1.htm (102 words)

	Climbing Sitemap - Page 3 (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-10)
		The Russian expedition that climbed the North Face of Jannu in Nepal has won the Piolet d'Or, the golden ice axe that is awarded annually in France for the top mountaineering ascent of the year.
		Lander is officially the hottest place on earth, because of the awesome climbing scene and the fact that it is about the same temperature as the surface of the sun.
		Longtime climber and climbing activist Reese Martin III was killed July 9 in a paragliding accident in Washington State.
	spiderbites.primedia.com /plinks/detail_pirt_climbingmag_3.htm (8441 words)

	[No title]
		In a fit of absentmindedness, during which its academics discoursed on the obsolescence of the nation-state, western Europe acquired not a colonial empire but something of an internal colony, whose numbers are roughly equivalent to the population of Syria.
		European intelligence services have linked the cell to the Moroccan Islamic Combat Group, which is associated with the Madrid bombings and a series of attacks in Casablanca in 2003.
		The Hofstad Group should not be compared with marginal European terrorist groups of the past, such as the Baader-Meinhof Gang in Germany, Action Directe in France, or the Red Brigades in Italy.
	www.faithfreedom.org /oped/RobertLeiken60127p2.htm (970 words)

	Hitting the Wall \| Outside Online (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-10)
		LAST FALL, 20-year-old human fly Chris Sharma clawed up the first 80 feet of limestone on Biographie Extensiona 70-move, 140-foot climbing route in Ceuse, south of Grenoble, France, that has yet to see its first full ascent and that is believed by many to be the hardest sport climb in the world.
		For the past decade, sport climbing's benchmark has been 5.14d, a rating first claimed in 1991 in Germany on Action Directe by prolific route setter Wolfgang Gullich.
		Sharma's narrow miss shifted the U.S. focus to Dave Graham, a 19-year-old rock rat from Maine with one of climbing's toughest resumes.
	outside.away.com /outside/news/200107/disp_climbers.html (315 words)

	Action Directe: It’s a Trade Route (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-10)
		After only five ascents in 13 years, Germany’s Action Directe (5.14d) has been redpointed three times in a little over a week.
		The 26-year-old is the fourth German to climb the route, which was established by the late Wolfgang Güllich in 1991 and is considered the benchmark 9a (5.14d).
		Earlier this month, Rich Simpson of Great Britain and Dai Koyamada of Japan redpointed Action Directe within two days.
	climbing.com /news/actiondirecte (177 words)

	Grim's Hall
		The fact that I never cared for Lennon the man, his music or his politics doesn't change the fact that his murder was an evil thing, one that rightly excites condemnation and wrath in the heart of a good man. I certainly sympathize with anyone so moved by this or any similar event.
		For whatever reason, however, Corn's wrath was directed not at the murderer, but at a sort of symbol: the NRA headquarters building, which he was walking by on an errand.
		Nevertheless, it is clear that he is a serious thinker, honest and direct, and possessed of a courtly manner that befits a gentleman and a high official.
	grimbeorn.blogspot.com /2005_12_01_grimbeorn_archive.html (16145 words)

Try your search on: Qwika (all wikis)