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Topic: Anatoli Boukreev

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	Anatoli Boukreev - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
		Boukreev was relatively unknown, though well accomplished, in the international climbing community until the 1996 spring climbing season on Mount Everest, where twelve people died in one of the biggest tragedies in the climbing history of Mount Everest, an event chronicled by Anatoli Boukreev in his best-selling book The Climb.
		Boukreev was born on January 16, 1958 in the Urals of Russia.
		In the winter of 1997, Boukreev was attempting to climb the south face of Annapurna I (8,078m) along with Simone Moro, an accomplished Italian mountaineer.
	en.wikipedia.org /wiki/Anatoli_Boukreev (1297 words)

	Anatoli Boukreev: Legendary Climber Killed on Annapurna (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-21)
		Boukreev and Italian climber Simone Moro, 30, were attempting to climb a new route, alpine style, in winter, on 26,700-foot (8,091 meter) Annapurna in the Himalayas of Nepal.
		Boukreev said that he decided to write his own account of the summit day tragedy, which claimed eight lives on May 10, 1996, because it was his belief that Krakauer's account had inaccurately reported his actions and motivations.
		Boukreev said in May 1997 that he was haunted by what he felt was unfair criticism of his actions during the Everest tragedy.
	classic.mountainzone.com /climbing/boukreev (677 words)

	Independent, The (London): Obituary: Anatoli Boukreev
		Anatoli Boukreev, who died in an avalanche on Annapurna on Christmas Day, was one of the outstanding high-altitude mountaineers of his day.
		Anatoli Boukreev was born in 1958, in the Russian Urals, but spent much of his life in Kazakhstan, adopting dual citizenship after the collapse of the Soviet Union.
		Anatoli Boukreev seemed to be locked into that world of extreme adventure and on 25 December his luck ran out when an avalanche swept him to his death.
	www.findarticles.com /p/articles/mi_qn4158/is_19980126/ai_n9651356 (603 words)

	[No title]
		Boukreev proved in his own book, The Climb, that multiple actions called into question by Krakauer were in fact valuable steps that an experienced climber used in order to rescue clients in need.
		Boukreev was also criticized for his lack of equipment during the trip to the summit.
		Anatoli Boukreev, despite Jon Krakauer's criticisms, was the most valuable member of the expeditions caught near the summit of Everest on May 10, 1996.
	www.justinrussell.com /img/portfolio-climber.txt (964 words)

	International Rock Climbing School : "In the Jungle, the Mighty Jungle"
		Boukreev elected not to make use of supplemental oxygen on this climb, Krakauer believes that this was an error on his part, however, in my opinion if any climber on that expedition was capable of climbing without oxygen it was Anatoli Boukreev.
		Boukreev's experience clearly dictates that he was capable of climbing without the use of supplemental oxygen.
		If Boukreev had stayed on the summit waiting for other clients in hours he would have been completely useless, even with supplemental oxygen it is almost impossible to remain aware and logical for prolonged periods of time at the summit of Everest.
	www.climbingschool.org /news/intothinair.shtml (860 words)

	Blogger: Email Post to a Friend
		Boukreev is no longer around to defend "The Climb." But by all accounts he was puzzled and upset by his depiction in Krakauer's book and wanted to get his version on the record.
		Boukreev, this climber says, "cut and ran." Krakauer, too, is suspicious of Boukreev's motives, and he points out what he calls a "serious flaw" in the "return to get tea" argument.
		Anatoli says to him, 'I'm going to go make tea.' Fischer was in no shape to be making decisions, and Anatoli should have known better." This was another example, Krakauer says, of Boukreev "blaming Fischer for his own bad decisions.
	www.blogger.com /email-post.g?blogID=8914299&postID=111633409735780143 (4809 words)

	Scott Fischer - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
		On May 10, 1996, Fischer, Anatoli Boukreev and Neil Beidelman guided eight of their clients to the summit of Everest.
		Boukreev made several attempts to reach Fischer but turned back on the first two attempts due to the weather.
		Finally, around 7pm on May 11, Boukreev was able to reach Fischer's position, but unfortunately it was too late.
	en.wikipedia.org /wiki/Scott_Fischer (427 words)

	Everest 2003 Cybercast only on MountainZone.com (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-21)
		Known for his powerful climbing, Boukreev considers what it means to guide on Everest, the 1996 tragedy and the difficulty of getting facts on such an emotionally charged issue.
		I am a coach, not a guide." Anatoli Boukreev, wearing sandals and sweatpants, is sitting in the Gauri Shankar Hotel in Kathmandu next to a big paper sack of green grapes he's scored somewhere.
		Boukreev, of course, was working for Scott Fischer last year when a sudden summit-day storm caught many climbers high on the mountain.
	climb.mountainzone.com /everest/2003/html/interview_boukreev_1997.html (1133 words)

	Summit Journal '96: Scott Fischer Returns to Everest: Reply from Jon Krakauer (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-21)
		Anatoli performed heroically in the pre-dawn hours of May 11, and helped save the lives of Sandy Pittman and Charlotte Fox; I admire him immensely for going out alone in the storm, when the rest of us were lying helpless in our tents, and bringing in the lost climbers.
		Anatoli is a remarkably strong climber at altitude, but he was paid $25,000 to perform as a guide, and oxygen would have certainly allowed him to think more clearly and assist clients much more readily.
		Anatoli also states, "As a precautionary measure, in the event that some extraordinary demand was placed on me on summit day, I was carrying one (1) bottle of supplementary oxygen, a mask, and a reductor....
	outside.away.com /peaks/fischer/krakreply1.html (1047 words)

	Avalanche Incident (CSAC) - Nepal 122597 (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-21)
		Boukreev, 39, and Italian climber Simone Moro, 30, were descending with Sobelev toward their high camp when an avalanche, triggered by a cornice breaking off a ridge line, scoured the slope.
		Boukreev and Morro were avalanched at approximately 20,000 feet on the south side of Annapurna on Saturday.
		Anatoly Boukreev, 39, a noted mountaineer, was swept away by an avalanche on Thursday while he was at 5,900 metres (19,356 ft), the spokesman quoted fellow climber Simone Moro as saying.
	www.csac.org /Incidents/1997-98/Nepal-122597.html (2366 words)

	Mountain Light Photography: Galen Rowell's Recommended Reading
		Depending on your source, Boukreev was either the villain or the hero of the unfortunate events on Everest.
		Boukreev avoids Krakauer’s penchant for focusing on the idiosyncrasies of his companions by simply accepting fellow climbers at face value for who they are on the mountain.
		Both Boukreev and DeWalt err on the side of honoring those attempting Everest, while Krakauer draws his reader toward tabloid-style assumptions that erase heroism from the Himalaya as surely as modern journalism erases greatness from the presidency.
	www.mountainlight.com /reading/climb.shtml (1434 words)

	Salon Wanderlust \| Remembering an Everest hero
		Boukreev, 39, was known among the international climbing community as one of the foremost high-altitude mountaineers of his generation.
		In the United States, however, Boukreev was generally known only from coverage of the much publicized, tragic events on Mount Everest in May 1996, in which Boukreev's employer and friend, Scott Fischer, along with a number of other climbers, lost their lives.
		Boukreev, who was born in the Urals, lived for several years in Khazakhstan after the collapse of the former Soviet Union.
	www.salon.com /wlust/feature/1998/01/16featureb.html (1137 words)

	Above the Clouds: The Diaries of a High-Altitude Mountaineer
		AUTHORBIO: Anatoli Boukreev was (with G. Weston DeWalt) co-author of The Climb and a world-renowned high-altitude mountaineer.
		Anatoli Boukreev was one of the most remarkable mountaineers in history.
		Anatoli Boukreev hints at the pressure placed upon him and others prior to the fall of his government.
	www.iyares.com /resources/books/details.aspx?id=0312269706 (572 words)

	The Climb (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-21)
		Boukreev's point of view is that above 8,000 meters, you cannot be a guide anymore, at least not in the traditional sense of the term.
		This is the basis of Boukreev's defense of his actions in the 1996 expedition.
		It is sad that Boukreev himself died in an avalanche in December 1997.
	erik.bruchez.name /books/review/500054 (656 words)

	Books : The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-21)
		Boukreev refers to the actions of expedition leader Scott Fischer throughout the ascent, implying that factors other than the fierce snowstorm may have caused this disaster.
		Anatoli Boukreev, head climbing guide for the Mountain Madness expedition, stepped into the heart of the storm and brought three of his clients down alive.
		Whether you agree with Boukreev's or Krakauer's perspective regarding the events on Everest in 1996, the narrative of The Climb suggests that co-writer DeWalt was a poor choice to handle the retelling of Boukreev's story.
	www.jazzopolis.com /cgi-bin/apf4/amazon_products_feed.cgi?Operation=ItemLookup&ItemId=0312965338 (790 words)

	Salon Wanderlust \| Everest controversy continues
		Anatoli, as he explained in "The Climb," chose to use oxygen on that occasion because he did not feel comfortable with his acclimatization or his physical condition, which had been aggravated by some emergency oral surgery he'd had just before summit day.
		Anatoli has said publicly and in print that, yes, he saw Yasuko Namba when he went onto the South Col in the storm in the early hours of May 11, 1996, but he has always said that he never saw Weathers until later that afternoon when he stumbled into Camp IV.
		Weston DeWalt is the co-author, with Anatoli Boukreev, of "The Climb."
	archive.salon.com /wlust/feature/1998/08/07featurea.html (1131 words)

	The Climb
		The book, "co-authored" by Anatoli Boukreev, who guided on one of the commercial expeditions that suffered fatalities (including the death of its leader, Scott Fischer), is essentially a response to Into Thin Air, the best-selling narrative written by Jon Krakauer, a client on another major commercial expedition that coincided with Boukreev’s.
		Boukreev died in an avalanche while climbing Annapurna I, another of the world’s great peaks, not long after the book was published.
		Boukreev offers sound rebuttals, and further complicates Krakauer’s report by describing his own efforts to rescue lost climbers in the blizzard on the night of May 10 and the early morning hours of May 11.
	www.sportsjones.com /climb.htm (549 words)

	New Page 2
		Anatoli Boukreev was irresponsible by climbing the mountain without oxygen as a leader.
		To shift the blame to Boukreev or any other person on that expedition would be an act of hypocrisy because every one who made a summit bid was gambling with their lives from the start.
		Boukreev is not the "one" to blame for all of the deaths.
	www1.fccj.cc.fl.us /ctwiggs/1102Arguments.htm (7734 words)

	Risk Online: Boukreev-Moro expedition to Annapurna
		Participants of the expedition Anatoli Boukreev, Simone Moro and a high-altitude cameraman Dmitri Sobolev were walking unroped on easy terrain.
		Boukreev was 200 meters below Moro, Sobolev was walking down below him.
		Relatives and friends hope that Anatoli and Dmitri are alive and could go down to the intermediate camp.
	risk.ru /eng/people/boukreev/final-2 (423 words)

	Welcome To The Anatoli Boukreev Memorial Fund
		Anatoli was grateful for his training in the mountaineering tradition of the former Soviet Union.
		In his memory, the Anatoli Boukreev Memorial Fund strives to celebrate his spirit by providing financial and logistical support for cross-cultural climbing exchanges involving young mountaineers from Anatoli's region, the Tien Shan and Pamir mountains, and from other ranges of the world.
		The Anatoli Boukreev Memorial Fund has supported two young Kazakh mountaineers on an expedition to the United States and supported an American climber's expedition to the International Mountaineering Camp in the Tien Shan where he and two partners from Kazakhstan climbed the spectacular and technical Khan Tengri (7010 meters).
	www.boukreev.org /homepage.html (610 words)

	Amazon.ca: The Climb: Books (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-21)
		This is the story about the 1996 Everest tragedy told from the perspective of Anatoli Boukreev, who was one of the guides on the ill-fated Mountain Madness expedition.
		There is no doubt, however, that Boukreev did, in fact, single handedly rescue three of the climbers during a raging blizzard; climbers who without his intervention would have died.
		Boukreev's is an important voice in the Everest annals, more so now that his voice has been silenced.
	www.amazon.ca /exec/obidos/ASIN/0333907159 (496 words)

	Amazon.fr : Above the Clouds: The Diaries of a High-Altitude Mountaineer : Livres en anglais (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-21)
		Boukreev's coauthored bestselling account of the tragedy, The Climb, was an attempt to set the record straight.
		This new posthumous collection is a series of narratives Boukreev wrote between 1987 and his death climbing Annapurna in 1997; it stands as an excellent addition to The Climb and as one of the most revealing and tough-minded descriptions of the life of a mountain climber.
		Anatoli Boukreev was (with G. Weston DeWalt) coauthor of The Climb and a world-renowned high-altitude mountaineer.
	www.amazon.fr /exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/english-books/031229137X/reviews (940 words)

	The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest (1997) (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-21)
		Mr Boukreev, an experienced climber who had summitted many of the highest peaks without oxygen, explains his reasons, which I find persuasive: if one climbs with oxygen, then losing it deals a much more severe blow to one's capacity to reflect and act than climbing without.
		The innuendo about Mr Boukreev was not even properly dressed and therefore had to descend quickly is dispelled by several of the pictures taken on summit day, where he appears dressed as well as anybody else.
		Mr Boukreev was not aware of Mr Weathers, the person left for dead twice by his team-mates only to miraculously survive both times, and so could not have done anything to help him.
	www.gotterdammerung.org /books/reviews/c/climb.html (1263 words)

	Salon Wanderlust \| Everest controversy: Weston DeWalt's latest response
		Boukreev's account of his meeting with Fischer and their conversation about his rapid descent appears in "The Climb" (pages 177-178).
		Boukreev's "failure," as Krakauer has described it, to stay close to Adams, would be an admissible charge only if you believe, as Krakauer apparently does, that the second exchange did not take place.
		I was not aware that Boukreev was a nominee for the award until after a five-member committee (not three-member, as Krakauer has offered) had unanimously selected Boukreev as a recipient.
	www.salon.com /wlust/feature/1998/08/20feature.html (1986 words)

	Amazon.co.uk: The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest: Books (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-21)
		Boukreev explains his understanding of his role as a "consultant" rather than a "guide".
		Perhaps the most compelling evidence in Anatoli's favour is the dignity with which he has conducted himself in the face of such a pointed, singled-out attack on the part of Krakauer.
		If you are looking for a fair view of what happened on the mountain on that dreadful day 10th May 1996 then this is the book to read, but if you are after a book that takes you on a rollercoaster ride of those fateful hours then i'm afraid you will be very disappointed.
	www.amazon.co.uk /exec/obidos/ASIN/0330488961 (775 words)

	The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest
		Even the passages Boukreev "narrated" are ultimately a cipher; Boukreev's limited grasp of English necessarily truncates the story he is trying to tell.
		It's a shame that someone with more talent and journalistic integrity didn't recount Boukreev's story before he died on Annapurna; as it is, readers are left with a questionable narrative that ultimately sheds little light onto Boukreev's story, his actions, or his interpretation of the events of May 10, 1996.
		Not even Boukreev himself is fleshed out that much as a character, and thus some of the tension, relationship drama, and even heroism gets lost by the author's inability to fully enliven the main figures.
	www.iyares.com /amazon/details.aspx?id=0312965338 (1438 words)

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