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Topic: Anchor (climbing)

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	Glossary of climbing terms - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
		A dynamic climbing technique in which the hold is grabbed at the apex of upward motion.
		Climbing technique relying on the friction between the sloped rock and the sole of the shoe to support the climber's weight, as opposed using holds or edges, cracks, etc.
		Climbing on routes that are too long for a single belay rope.
	en.wikipedia.org /wiki/Climbing_glossary (2884 words)

	Canyoneering Primer (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-14)
		This is probably because in climbing where most of the data is taken from natural anchors are used when retreating or descending from a climb, climbers are often fatigued in these circumstances affecting their judgement, and climbers are usually highly motivated to save money and conserve gear when retreating or descending.
		Make sure that if your anchor is questionable (like a poor hook placement or knot jam) that you keep in mind the hook or knot you are using for an anchor (plus part or all of the "anchor") may come zinging back at you at high speed while you're falling back into the pool.
		Probably OK for climbing out of a pothole when the thing it's connected to on the other end might not be as strong as the cord and the fall back is into water or soft sand, but remember the margins are thin for this.
	www.climb-utah.com /Misc/natural.htm (16045 words)

	Patent 4660681: Anchor and climbing rung
		For each climbing rung two anchor sleeves corresponding to the ends of the rung are provided which are adapted to be located in suitably placed bore holes in a wall.
		The anchor sleeves, made from plastic or nylon are in the shape of a tubular shell having a slightly conical inner bore and are sealed at one end.
		Preferably the synthetic protective coat encapsulating the climbing rung is of an outer configuration encapsulating the connecting arms to present a flat surface which may constitute a flat striking surface for hammer blows contact for anchoring the climbing rung.
	www.freepatentsonline.com /4660681.html (1343 words)

	Patent 4712754: Rock climbing anchor
		The invention is an anchoring device for releasably anchoring within a crack in a rock face, the crack having a pair of opposed crack walls.
		An anchoring device according to the invention is for releasably anchoring within a crack in a rock face, the crack having a pair of oppositely facing crack walls.
		An anchoring device 10 according to the invention is shown fitted within a crack 12 having first and second, generally parallel, oppositely facing crack walls 13 and 14.
	www.freepatentsonline.com /4712754.html (6540 words)

	The Rappel Anchor
		For rappelling, the anchor should ideally be situated high enough so the rappeller does not have to make an awkward transition over the cliff edge or off the ledge before he or she begins the descent.
		The ideal rappel anchor enables the person rappelling to assume the correct body position and put his or her weight on the rope before going over the edge.
		Additionally, fixed sling anchors often are not equipped with rappel rings, meaning that parties before you might have wrapped their rope around the slings themselves.
	www.rock-climbing.ws /rappel-anchor (588 words)

	Haul Anchor advice? :: SuperTopo Rock Climbing Discussion Topic (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-14)
		A lot of the belay anchors in Zion seem to be 2 rusty bolts or more often a pair of drilled angles.
		You hang and haul off the equilized point and your partner cleans the gear after you haul (if the anchors are crap) or tie off your partner to the last couple of pieces on the pitch to isolate the anchor you are goofing around on from his weight.
		We sure to clip a piece that is right under the central anchor point and take all the slack out of the system so that when the piece pulls there is no shock-load on the anchor.
	www.supertopo.com /climbing/thread.html?m=100&f=0&b=0 (529 words)

	Climbing (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-14)
		The anchor's carabiners with the rope passing through are suspended below the top of the climb to prevent the rope from rubbing.
		The climb may be no longer than half the length of the rope; when the climber starts, the rope must cross the full length of the climb twice.
		A modern climbing rope, a key piece of safety equipment, is of kernmantle construction, consisting of continuous braided nylon fibers, the kern, surrounded by a continuous braided nylon outer sheath, the mantle.
	www.troop125bsa.com /climbing1.htm (2725 words)

	Worst Anchor :: SuperTopo Rock Climbing Discussion Topic (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-14)
		Then again, maybe it was those other Shipley anchors on the most rotten of rotten Organ Rock, also in the Southwest desert, which we climbed with no bolts as we did the FA on what was to be only a recon mission with a light rack.
		The worst rap anchors I've encountered have been canyoneering in the desert, where sketchy procedures like the daisy-chain human rap anchor, macrame'd retrievable rap slings, the slung boulder piled underneath more boulders w/ additional ground friction are are S.O.P. Slinging unbelievably manky bushes.
		Thus the anchor of life remains deeply fixed in the waters of nescience for the purpose of sense gratification, and thus our so-called civilization rots in a stagnant pool.
	www.supertopo.com /climbing/thread.html?m=63752&f=0&b=0 (5383 words)

	Flatliners Southeast Climbing FAQ's - Climbing Forces - Anchor Forces
		While 2 good bolts may often be used as a anchor, the situation changes when the anchor is built with gear placed by the climber.
		With gear anchors instead of bolts, it is even more important to pay attention to the loads on each piece related to their location and sling length.
		Place the anchors close together when possible, and extend with slings or a cordalette as needed to insure the load is minimized and shared equally.
	www.southeastclimbing.com /faq/faq_anchor_forces.htm (729 words)

	Pinnacle Peak Climbing Management Plan (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-14)
		The climbing community (such as the Arizona Mountaineering Club, the Access Fund, and others) will be involved in the process leading to the potential closure of any route or area and changes to the climbing policy.
		Anchors are typically used, but only to stop a fall; they are not used as climbing aids.
		Fixed Anchor: Climbing protection that is installed and intended to be left as a permanent fixture on a climbing route.
	www.phoenixrockgym.com /ppclimbmgt.htm (935 words)

	Climbing's Anchor Replacement Initiative gains momentum (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-14)
		Climbing is delighted to announce that Kurt Smith, Eric Hörst, and Rusty Baillie joined the ARI volunteer ranks in June and have plans to upgrade a significant number of routes at their respective heavily trafficked areas.
		Climbing is the only national climbing publication that has stepped up and developed a program that provides resources to the climbing community to create and maintain a safe climbing environment.
		CLIMBING Magazine is the world’s leading publication on climbing and mountaineering, setting the standard through content and design innovation while maintaining close ties to the rich tradition of the sport.
	climbing.com /press/ari04 (566 words)

	Flatliners Website - Climbing Tutorial, Roped Climbing Methods - animated
		Modern climbing methods have developed from a hundred year history of roped ascents, during which the practices and techniques of the sport have evolved, and continue to evolve, as increased safety allows for more extreme challenges.
		A "pitch" is a distance climbed, limited by the length of the climbing rope.
		Multi-pitch climbing involves a much greater use of gear and techniques, and is suitable for small parties at most.
	members.aol.com /jackie4737/howto2.htm (1020 words)

	Flatliners Southeast Climbing FAQ's - Climbing Forces - Some Hypothetical Instances
		By determining the load on the falling climber and the load on the anchor carabiner, we can deduce the load on the belayer, since we know the sum of the load on both ropes is equal to the load on the top anchor.
		Still attached to the anchor by his four foot sling, the second climber climbs a few feet up the wall to grab the loose end and untie the knot.
		We'd already seen the anchor was solid enough to hold a factor 2 fall which generated 8.75 kN However, this short fall was different as it was not on the dynamic climbing rope.
	www.southeastclimbing.com /faq/faq_hypothetical_forces.htm (1866 words)

	The climbing dictionary
		Climbing unroped on boulders or at the foot of climbs to a height where it is still safe to jump off.
		Climbing, lowering, climbing again till a certain move is made (the usual mode of ascent...).
		This most essential climbing device is also known as a "biner" in the US and as "crab" or "krab" (mostly) in the UK.
	home.tiscalinet.de /ockier/climbing_dict.htm (5577 words)

	How to Equalize an Anchor in Rock Climbing - eHow.com
		Equalizing marginal anchors is an excellent way to increase the strength of the anchors.
		Climbing is an inherently dangerous activity that can result in serious injury or death.
		This is an unsafe anchor, rather than putting a twist in each section there should be a knot connecting all the points.
	www.ehow.com /how_6979_equalize-anchor-rock.html (388 words)

	Nirvana Climbing Guides - Top Rope Anchor Systems, Great Falls VA
		Learn about anchor materials and equipment that is designed for rock climbing use only.
		The emphasis here is to learn to setup safe, redundant anchor systems, where the belayer is at the top of the cliff.
		Be prepared to add to your anchor skills and discover the ability to climb safer and when the base is covered in water.
	www.nirvanaclimbing.com /toprope.cfm (264 words)

	Rock Climbing.com View topic - Anchor Question
		But, if you extend the anchor and hang off the edge, then your belay is, essentially, the edge or the lip.
		Although your anchor system should still have one if the anchor is composed solely of trad gear.
		While this wasn't likely to be a problem on the climb where I used it, it is certainly something to be aware of.
	www.rockclimbing.com /forums/viewtopic.php?t=82574 (1339 words)

	Anchor Replacement Initiative (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-14)
		Climbing Magazine, The North Face, and Petzl appreciate the support the climbing community provides to our businesses and want to tangibly give something back to that community.
		Climbing Magazine is the world’s leading publication on climbing and mountaineering, setting the benchmark through content and design innovation, while maintaining close ties to the rich tradition of the sport.
		Climbing is the only publication in its category with circulation verified by the Audit Bureau of Circulation (ABC).
	www.climbing.com /ari/launch (361 words)

	Rock Climbing.com View topic - anchor ?
		Where I normally go climbing (chatfield hollow) there is a huge distance to cover when setting up a top rope on a route called fore arm frenzy aka z crack.
		This anchor would violate R (Redundant) if only one strand of rope were running from the tree and NE (No Extension) even if there were no worry about wear over the edge.
		In any case check your anchor after every few climbs to make sure that it is not abrading too badly.
	www.rockclimbing.com /forums/viewtopic.php?t=71741 (1469 words)

	rock climbing anchor, training and tips for adventure racing. Dedicated to adventure, extreme races and endurance ... (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-14)
		In rock climbing, whether you use the SRENE/ERNEST system, or another method you may have learned, the fact is you should always use multiple anchors.
		Creating rock climbing anchors is, in fact, creating a dynamic engineering systems to handle a suspected or expected maximum impact force.
		It is obvious that a single anchor point is not secure enough to protect a climber even in a top rope situation.
	www.worldar.com /workout/train/anchor1.html (441 words)

	The North Face - News - Climbing Magazine launches the Anchor Replacement Initiative
		The ARI is an industry-supported program that will systematically replace worn or inadequate belay and rappel anchors at climbing areas across the country.
		In partnership with The North Face and Petzl, Climbing is coordinating a network of area enthusiasts, guides, local organizations and land managers to execute the needed anchor replacements.
		Climbing encourages, supports, and engages in activities that preserve the climbing environment and educate the climbing community about conservation and safety.
	www.thenorthface.com /na/news/news-20030421.html (638 words)

	Bariloche, Patagonia climbing and rappelling granite spires
		The whole landscape in its all mighty, complexity and mystery is beyond intellect, with climbing we connect with nature...
		Although climbing does involve risk, our clients always climb with 100 per cent security from a top-rope system (a rop hooked into an anchor at the top of the climb).
		After climbing all day, in summer we'll cool off with a swim in Laguna Toncek, and then we'll head to the Refugio Frey to enjoy the legendary cuisine, including pizza and fondues.
	www.andescross.com /english/climbing.shtml (462 words)

	Rock Climbing Terminology
		pitch - A section of a climb whose maximum length is dictated by the length of the rope, usually 165 feet (50 m); all top-rope climbs are one pitch
		top-rope anchor - The belay anchor for a top-rope
		traditional climbing - A climbing system wherein the protection points and belay anchors that are placed in the rock while climbing the route are removed by the second
	www.rock-climbing.ws /rock-climbing-terminology (4782 words)

	anchor climbing equipment (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-14)
		Anchor is a generic term which refers to a variety...
		Climbing equipment can be expensive, but don't let that throw you...
		If you have done enough climbing to feel ready to explore the world of climbing equipment and anchor systems, the Anchor Skills Weekend is for you.
	www.hiking-equipment-4u.com /18/anchor-climbing-equipment.html (527 words)

	Rock Climbing: Shelf Road (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-14)
		Shelf is one of the few climbing areas with trail signs that point your way to specific climbing areas.
		Fun climb but it could be a real bad ending if someone trusted that anchor.
		Besides it is more fun to climb that way, You wind up climbing harder because you don't have some irrelavant number in your head.
	www.climbingboulder.com /rock/db/shelf_road (2958 words)

	MSN Encarta - Dictionary - deadman snow anchor
		MSN Encarta - Dictionary - deadman snow anchor
		Search for "deadman snow anchor" in all of MSN Encarta
		snow anchor used in climbing: a snow anchor used in climbing that can resist considerable force because it digs itself deep into the snow for a secure hold
	encarta.msn.com /dictionary_561535821/deadman_snow_anchor.html (76 words)

	PAS (Personal Anchor System) by Metolius and other climbing equipment for Passive Protection.
		Designed to give the climber a super-strong anchor connection while threading for the lower, setting up a rappel or belaying.
		The PAS should replace the daisy chain affixed to your harness for belay change-overs, primarily because daisy chains are strong only when loaded in the end loops (intermediate pockets are only 300 lbf/1.3kN).
		Additionally, the PAS doubles as a handy anchor equalizer or runner when removed from your harness.
	www.backcountrygear.com /catalog/climbdetail.cfm/MET8355 (102 words)

	Mountain Technology - ice climbing gear - Snow Anchor (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-14)
		Mountain Technology - ice climbing gear - Snow Anchor
		Although the shape of the snow anchor has not changed in 20 years, testimony to the quality of the original concept, Mountain Technology now introduces a new shape which adds style and elegance to the anchor without compromising on safety and performance.
		The new shape is used on both large and small anchors.
	www.mountaintechnology.co.uk /products/snow_anchor.htm (142 words)

	Rock Climbing.com View topic - slackline for use as a climbing anchor (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-14)
		I'm not sure on this, the pressure you putting on the webbing by standing on it can't be much more than the pressure from top roping with it.
		The tension on a slackline can exceed 1000 pounds depending on the length of the line, how much it sags when you stand on it, and how much you bounce on the line.
		I've never heard of a slackline breaking, and they're subjected to a whole lot more force than a TR anchor.
	helpdesk.rockclimbing.com /forums/viewtopic.php?t=49865 (403 words)

	How to Tie Into an Anchor - eHow.com
		Clip one of your locking carabiners to the same place in the anchor as your partner.
		Tie a "figure eight on a bight" by folding the top of the loop down and wrapping it one complete turn around the double strand of rope that forms the base of the bight, then push the doubled end back through the hole.
		Practice tying a figure eight before a climb to keep the pace brisk.
	www.ehow.com /how_1259_tie-anchor.html (391 words)

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