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Topic: Belayer

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Self belay

Belay station

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	OA Guide to Belaying at the Climbing Wall
		The belayer is clipped into the floor anchor on the side opposite the brake hand.
		Belaying itself is relatively simple provided one is always paying attention to your climbing partner.
		There is a paired response from the climber to her belayer at each point.
	www.princeton.edu /~oa/climb/belaywal.shtml (1353 words)

	Belaying
		Ideally, the belay device or hitch should be securely attached to a bombproof anchor which is separate from the standing line anchor.
		A severe fall by the climber may cause back or internal injuries to a body belayer due to the sudden load which may be imparted to the belayer during a fall.
		Belaying should be performed with a suitable belay device or with a Munter Hitch, not your body.
	www.hawills.com /Belaying.htm (535 words)

	HOBBIES : Activities : Rock-Climbing Introduction and Safety : DIY Network
		Essentially, belaying (figure A) simply means that the climber is secured to a rope, the rope is attached to some fixed object, and the opposite end of the rope is being held and controlled by a second person, known as the belayer.
		Belaying is a necessary part of climbing when the climber will be high enough that a fall could result in injury.
		If the belayer pulls his brake hand down and the free end of the rope is pulled at an angle from the ATC, however, it causes the rope to catch, thus breaking a climber's fall if necessary.
	www.diynet.com /diy/os_activities/article/0,2033,DIY_14149_2273691,00.html (1226 words)

	Glossary - Stone Age Rock Gym (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-21)
		The belayer threads the rope through a belay device (which may be a figure eight, a tuber, or an automatic lock belay device such as a Grigri).
		Once the leader has reached the end of the rope or a convenient resting place, either a belay station is established by the leader (outdoors only) or the belayer lowers the leader from the highest protection point (this is most common in the gym).
		Often a so-called "slingshot belay" is used, where the toprope runs from the climber to an anchor at the top of the climb and then back down to the belayer on the floor (this is the most common method used at climbing gyms and in climbing outrdoors at cliffs under 80 feet tall).
	www.stoneagerockgym.com /climbing/glossary.htm (3142 words)

	Class Descriptions,Climbing Wall, Recreation Services, City of Longmont, Colorado
		To belay is to control the movement of the climbing rope so as to protect the climber from injury from falling.
		Position -The belayer must position himself so that force from the rope in event of a fall is transmitted directly to the anchor, and the belayer's stance contributes to the strength of the anchor.
		The rope typically runs through the belay device, and the belay device is attached to the belayer's harness and to a belay anchor.
	www.ci.longmont.co.us /rec/climbingwall/class_desc.htm (1066 words)

	SoMat : Applications : Articles : REI
		The belaying equipment tested by REI is used by climbers as a form of protection in case the lead climber falls.
		While the purpose of a belaying device is to provide controllable friction, there are many other variables besides the type of device which affect the actual loads on the belayer and the equipment.
		One of firmest catches from a dynamic belaying device came from the HB Bigger Brake which put a load of 392 pounds on the belayer, 835 pounds on the climber, and 1227 on the protection.
	www.somat.com /applications/articles/rei.htm (1662 words)

	Sport Climbing and Rappelling
		Another totally safe confidence builder, you will be hooked to a harness and a rappelling rope and will be able to lean back over the edge and walk down the wall.
		For the Climber, the belayer will be on the ground and holds the safety rope for the Climber.
		When Rappelling, the belayer will be on the top of the wall.
	www.co.matagorda.tx.us /jp/terminology.htm (243 words)

	SUOC - Rock Climbing Help Sheet (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-21)
		The belayer will take up rope slack as the climber goes up and also jams the rope when the climber falls to prevent any rope from running through his setup and making the climber fall down more than just the amount of slack and stretch in the rope.
		Where the belayer has his or her setup is called the belay stance.
		It can be used to tie onto your harness when belaying (to guide the rope past your hips), to "tie yourself in" - used on ledges, or for the belayer to tie oneself to a webbing attached to a tree or something stationary so s/he doesn't fall.
	suoc.syr.edu /suoc/climbing/rock-info.html (856 words)

	Flatliners Southeast Climbing FAQ's - Climbing Forces - Some Hypothetical Instances
		By determining the load on the falling climber and the load on the anchor carabiner, we can deduce the load on the belayer, since we know the sum of the load on both ropes is equal to the load on the top anchor.
		There is 82 feet (belayer side of anchor) + 18 feet (climber side of anchor + 6 feet under the roof) + (6 feet of additional slack gained by the climbing above the roof) or 106 feet (32.3 meters) of rope in play when the climber falls 12 feet (3.6 meters).
		At the belayers end of the rope, 3.87 kN (870 lbs.) is placed on the anchors.
	www.southeastclimbing.com /faq/faq_hypothetical_forces.htm (1866 words)

	Vertical Stronghold - Belay Skills (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-21)
		Those belay certified may be fined $10 and/or forfeit their day pass if found negligent of any of these rules and regulations.
		Non-certified belayers practicing belaying are not allowed to have anyone tied in and climbing on practice rope.
		All belayers regardless of belay device must keep the same hand on the braking ("friction" or "tail") end of the rope while climbers are off the ground.
	www.climbwithus.com /vsbelayskills.htm (562 words)

	OnMilwaukee.com
		Belay: A system by which the climber is safeguarded from hitting the ground.
		This is the most important skill involved in rock climbing, because the person on the ground -- the belayer -- is literally taking the life of the climber into his or her hands.
		In short, if a climber were to fall, the belay devise, along with the belayer's quick response, would stop the fall.
	www.onmilwaukee.com /articles/print/climbing.html (607 words)

	American Fitness: To the top: take your fitness program to new heights with wall climbing - Brief Article (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-21)
		A belayer holds the end of the rope, hooked to his or her karabiner and through the belay device, to take up rope slack as the climber ascends the wall.
		"Belay"--the climber is asking the belayer to hold the rope to prevent him or her from going the full length of the rope in the event of a fall.
		Belay device--a friction device fitted to the rope and used by the belayer.
	www.findarticles.com /p/articles/mi_m0675/is_4_20/ai_90924137 (1126 words)

	Techniques
		The belayer must keep the slack in the rope to a minimum since when a climber slips, any slack must be taken up before the rope can stop the fall.
		There must be places for a belayer to be secured to the rock (``belay stations'') spaced no farther than the length of the rope.
		The climber places her weight on the rope, and the belayer slowly lets out the rope, using the belay device to control her rate of descent, much like rappeling.
	alumnus.caltech.edu /~sedwards/climbing/techniques.html (1223 words)

	SFGate: Business Resource Center - Slacker Manager (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-21)
		When the climber understands that the belayer is truly working for them, then the climber is limited only by their own technical skill and degree of boldness.
		The belayer thought I was calling for slack, and so instead of pulling tight actually let out some line--until he saw how fast it was going out and then pulled the belay tight.
		So the point about a belayer being attuned to a climber makes a lot of sense to me; to offer the service needed, a manager must first know what his staff really wants, and be willing to quickly correct and adjust if he/she has read it wrong.
	allbusiness.sfgate.com /blog/SlackerManager/4006/002278.html (1565 words)

	Women Climbing: anchoring
		Maybe the belayer needs freedom of movement to duck out of the way if there is loose rock coming down, or maybe there are a lot of other climbers around and the risk of them dropping objects is real.
		The benefits are first and foremost belayer protection and keeping control of the belay, to a lesser extent protecting the belay anchor against an upward pull, and also minimizing the potential distance the leader will fall.
		In this sense, to protect the belayer is to protect the anchor, while the opposite is not necessarily true: protecting the anchor for an upward pull doesn't necessarily protect the belayer from injury.
	www.womenclimbing.com /climb/features/feature_anchoring.html (1855 words)

	EXPN.com - International - X Speak - Sport Climbing
		Belay: The system used to protect a climber in the case of a fall, by using a rope and a friction device.
		The climber's partner, the "belayer," has the climber "on belay" when the rope is securely tied to their harness and then passed through a friction device attached to the belayer's harness.
		With top rope climbing, the belayer stays on the ground, but as the climber gains height, the slack in the rope is pulled in through the belay device, so that if the climber falls, there is no descent.
	expn.go.com /xgames/intl/s/xspeak_climb.html (2096 words)

	Tradgirl Climbing FAQ - Safety
		Belay loops were invented about 10 years ago to solve the problem of having no obvious place to clip into a harness for belaying and rappelling.
		If the belayer is using a Grigri, then in order to make the belay dynamic, he must be free to jump up, be pulled up, or move into the rock as he takes the falling climber's weight; otherwise, the belay will be static.
		A belayer should only be running downhill in case the leader is in danger of hitting a ledge (or the ground), or in cases where the fall forcesare negligable (such as in a sliding slab fall).
	www.tradgirl.com /climbing_faq/safety_3.htm (8302 words)

	[No title] (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-21)
		If the belayer fails to gather the slack and the climber falls, he or she will drop the distance of the slack in the rope and then crash back against the rock wall.
		This is done by the climber extending his or her legs at a 90° angle at the hips and placing the feet against the wall and leaning backwards so that you are basically sitting in your harness.
		Your belayer attached to the other end of your rope to assure you will not fall is God who supports you as you make the difficult climb and who gently welcomes you as your climb is complete.
	www.cechurch.com /7_8_2001.htm (1742 words)

	Hang (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-21)
		The belayer's role is to use two hands on a braking device, which controls the descent of the climber.
		One of the functions of the belayer is to ensure the rope slack is taken up as the climber ascends and ensure that the rope does not get tangled up which would result in the climber dangling.
		Once the climber asks to come down, it is the function of the belayer to allow the rope to pass through the braking device such that the climber descends at a rate that is not too fast or too slow.
	www.hendle.com (1081 words)

	Phys. Ed. Climbing Wall
		Belayer's response to climber when belayer is secure and ready to catch a fall.
		It means the climber has the undivided attention of the belayer and the belayer is actively handling the process of a roped belay.
		Belayer should respond by allowing the climber a slightly looser rope; it does not mean to give the climber slack rope.
	www.schuylervilleschools.org /PE/PEClimbingWall1.htm (502 words)

	SummitPost.org - Message Board - Technique and Training - Belaying a lead climber?
		From observation it appears to me that the only difference between belaying a toproped climber and a lead climber is that the belayer has to pay more attention and let out slack when the lead climber needs it.
		Using the hip belay, you had to keep the sow from hitting the deck to advance to the next level.
		You should be able to depend on your belayer to: Feed enough (but not too much) rope at the right time, be ready for clips, hold you in a fall, give you beta, direct the rope, and give you encouragement.
	www.summitpost.org /show/mread.pl?f_id=3&t_id=2671 (2283 words)

	Climbing command - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
		Standard commands make it possible for climbers to work safely with each other, and for commands to be unambiguously understood when the wind is noisy.
		"On Belay" or "Climber ready" (US) or "Ready to climb" (UK): the climber wants to know if he is being belayed.
		"Off Belay" (US) or "Safe" (UK): the climber has made a safe stance; the belayer can take a rest.
	en.wikipedia.org /wiki/Climbing_command (291 words)

	Eagle Bluff Rock Climbing Class Curriculum (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-21)
		The belayer's right hand should be placed on the right piece of the rope, the piece that leaves the belay plate and is not connected to the climber.
		Belayers should be able to anticipate when verbal reinforcement is needed because their attention will be constantly focused on the climbers.
		Belay Loop: A belay loop is a part of a harness that the belayer uses to clip a locking carabiner, and then to a belay device.
	www.eagle-bluff.org /pages/rockclimbing_curriculum.html (8596 words)

	Parks and Recreation -- The City and Borough of Juneau
		Belay signals are specific verbal commands that allow a climber to communicate needs to the belayer.
		Indicates the belay either may be or is being dispensed with.
		It means the climber is falling and expecting the belayer to tighten the rope and "save" him/her.
	www.juneau.lib.ak.us /parkrec/youthcenter/climb.php (261 words)

	Frequently Asked Questions (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-21)
		As was previously mentioned, Belaying and tying-in to your harness are essential components of climbing.
		Patrons who are unable to pass the Belay Certification Test in two attempts are required to take (or re-take) the Cleveland Rock Gym’s Belay Class before they are permitted to belay at the Cleveland Rock Gym.
		It is important to note that any Belayer observed using poor or unsafe Belay Technique may be subject to immediate loss of Belay privileges.
	www.clevelandrockgym.com /faq.htm (999 words)

	[No title] (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-21)
		Belaying is such an important part of climbing it deserves it's own page here in the guide.
		The person that assumes the role of belayer uses some type of device that creates friction to stop the leader incase of a fall.
		The belayer should be confident in their task they are to perform as the leader trusts their life to this person.
	sweb.uky.edu /~srkauf00/belay.html (207 words)

	Getting Off the Ground Rock Climbing,Adventure Sports Online
		When the climber reaches the top, the belayer lowers him back to the ground by releasing rope through the belay device in a smooth and controlled manner.
		ligned: the belayer should be clipped to an anchor on the ground (a tree works great) and they must be in line between their anchor and the master point.
		and on the rope: the belayer must understand the mechanics of belaying and must be able to perform all functions without releasing his brake hand.
	www.adventuresportsonline.com /starting.htm (639 words)

	[No title]
		Whenever the team is on belay, the belayer should be able to stop a fall.
		During the Pitch:The belayer is continually responsible for the safety of the litter team.
		Whenever the team is on belay, the belayer should be able to arrest a fall.
	www.student.virginia.edu /~brmrg/training/FTL/Semitech-FTL2002.doc (2901 words)

	Don Luebbe's Statics Page
		Diagram C is a free-body diagram of the rope over the pipe with the shaded area representing the rope.
		The ratio of belayer force to climber force is 0.343.
		Depending on the number of times that the safety cord is wrapped around the pipe, the belayer must pull with only a small fraction of the climber's weight to keep him suspended.
	em-ntserver.unl.edu /Mechanics-Pages/Luebbe/staticsmain.html (662 words)

	Climbing (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-21)
		Climb on Response of the belayer to the climber if the belayer is ready for the climb to begin.
		On Belay First question the climber asks as he or she prepares to mount the wall.
		Take What the climber must say to signal to the belayer that he or she is ready to come down from the climb.
	www.pecentral.org /store/msmanual/climbingchapter.html (1191 words)

	Bloody Sunday
		His belayer is lucky that he didn't land on him -- would have killed the belayer for sure.
		The belayer literally dropped him -- as my finance and I were setting down our packs (had literally just walked around the corner) we looked up, saw the belayer looking at us with one hand loosely on the rope (above the belay device).
		The belayer never had a chance of catching him -- although I think a gri-gri would have bound up and caught the fall safely.
	www.climbaz.com /climbs/bsunday.html (1762 words)

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