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Topic: Crevasse rescue

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	Mountaineering Tips and Techniques
		Crevasse rescue anchors are generally built at the location of the climber nearest the crevasse.
		If a belay for rescuer(s) is required during the rescue, a sling can be tied to the anchor or hitched to the rope and connected to the rescuer's harness.
		The rescue rope is run over this “padding” to prevent it from cutting into the snow at the edge when it becomes loaded during the rescue.
	www.acmgguides.com /html/tipstech/mountaineering_template.asp?TTNumber=2 (841 words)

	Kaslo and Area Back Country Guide
		The rescue rope can then be passed to the victim over a prepared section of the crevasse edge so that it will not cut into the snow.
		This is done by rapelling down the rescue rope which is run directly from the anchor into the crevasse prior to extending the anchor.
		This is a figure 8 on a bight tied in the rescue rope between the rescue anchor and the edge of the crevasse.
	www.kin.bc.ca /JVH/StntHTML/PowderJs/Crevase.html (1016 words)

	planetFear / Articles / Backcountry Skiing / Crevasse Risks and Kit
		Crevasse fall is the last of the dangers covered in this guide and statistically the one with the lowest fatality rate, claiming “only” twenty or so lives per year.
		The critical point with crevasse rescue kit is that enough of it must remain on the surface (after the victim or victims have fallen in) to perform the rescue.
		In a crevasse rescue, an ice axe is often used to prepare the lip of the crevasse.
	www.planetfear.com /article_detail.asp?a_id=378 (1640 words)

	Mountaineering Tips and Techniques
		When instructing students in glacier travel/crevasse rescue, recreational techniques for peer group travel are more appropriate, specifically dividing of the rope and carrying of extra rope at front and back of the group.
		In a group of 4 there is usually enough rope on the surface to effect a rescue so extra in the pack is not needed.
		At the least, the client should be well versed in what to do should the guide fall into a crevasse and/or trained in crevasse rescue techniques.
	www.acmgguides.com /html/tipstech/mountaineering_template.asp?TTNumber=17 (565 words)

	The Antarctic Sun
		But because the crevasse was not very wide or deep, four rescuers were able to get a rope around the woman and pull her to the surface without much trouble.
		They found a large crevasse field very close to existing flagged routes, including one slot several feet on from where the fall occurred, which was much wider and deeper.
		After the rescue, the team marked their paths with crossed fl flags to indicate that they are not safe to travel on.
	antarcticsun.usap.gov /oldissues99-2000/2000_0206/crevasse.html (411 words)

	Crevasse
		A "crevasse" is a large deep crack in the surface of a glacier, caused by the ice flowing over uneven terrain.
		Crevasses are often hidden by overlying snow, and falling into one is extremely dangerous.
		A "crevice" cannot be a "crevasse" unless it is in a glacier.
	www.athropolis.com /arctic-facts/fact-crevasse.htm (334 words)

	Mt. Baker - Crevasse rescue
		There are several parameters that affect crevasse rescue: how many people have fallen into the crevasse, whether or not they are able to climb out themselves, how many people are on the surface, and where they are (all on the same side of the crevasse, or some on each side).
		The easiest situation is if the person who falls into the crevasse happens to land safely on a ledge and can climb out themselves, and everybody who is on the surface is on the same side of the crevasse.
		Whenever we were on a glacier that may have crevasses, we would each travel with our prussiks tied around the main rope just in front of us, and the other end in our pockets.
	www.translucence.com /baker0794/baker0794day3.html (728 words)

	Hopes fade for two in Antarctic crevasse - World - smh.com.au
		Rescuers search the crevasse into which the two men plunged.
		Hopes of finding two Argentines, who plunged into a deep ice crevasse near their base in Antarctica, are fading.
		Speaking at a news conference in Buenos Aires, Policastro said the cold was the biggest threat and rescuers were also hampered by the few hours of sunlight each day at the end of the southern hemisphere winter.
	www.smh.com.au /news/world/hopes-fade-for-crevasse-plunge-pair/2005/09/20/1126982037143.html (508 words)

	:: NASA Quest > Archives :: (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-14)
		The topics covered include cold injury prevention and treatment, terrain awareness and hazard analysis (crevasses, weather, emergency scenarios), layering and thermal regulation, snow shelters and use of field stoves, ski travel, ice axe introduction, environmental awareness (clean camping techniques), and movement on snow.
		Crevasse rescue is a multi-day course that builds on the basic glacier skills learned in Snowcraft II.
		Each member must be able to hold a fall, put in equalized anchors, escape from the system, rappel to the victim, improvise a chest harness, prussik out of the crevasse, prepare the crevasse edge, and rescue the victim with a 2:1, 3:1, or 6:1 rope hoist.
	quest.arc.nasa.gov /antarctica/background/NSF/field-guide/manual5.html (1126 words)

	planetFear / Articles / Backcountry Skiing / Crevasse Rescue Technique
		Choose an anchor position 5 metres back from the edge of the crevasse and in line with where the victim went over (set to one side there is a risk that the victim will pendulum on the rope).
		Crevasse rescue is not difficult but it is one of the more complex and technical processes you need to learn and it is easy to make mistakes if you get confused.
		You can even set up and practice crevasse rescue in the comfort of your own home during the quiet summer months (although we suggest you tie the anchor to the furniture rather than drilling ice screws into the floor!).
	www.planetfear.com /article_detail.asp?a_id=380 (1670 words)

	USATODAY.com - Quest for explorer's tent turned deadly (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-14)
		An illustration of how dangerous the area was: Members of the rescue team, who were roped together, fell into crevasses 20 times during the four hours it took them to travel about two miles from the airplane to the Norwegians' camp.
		Steve Dunbar, the team's leader, rappelled about 120 feet into a crevasse, to where it was only about eight inches wide and the temperature was around minus 30 degrees.
		Before heading back to the Twin Otter, the rescuers had to "prepare the Norwegians for the traverse and explain the principles of roped travel to them," the report says.
	www.usatoday.com /news/science/cold-science/life-work/crevasse-rescue-93.htm (660 words)

	NOVA Online \| Surviving Denali \| Crevasse Rescue
		When a climber falls into a crevasse his/her partners must immediately move into self-arrest positions to prevent the climber from falling any deeper into the crevasse.
		While the rescuer farthest from the fallen climber remains in self-arrest, the rescuer closer by immediately sets up an anchor on the rope.
		When the rope is secured the rescuers should assess the condition of the fallen climber.
	www.pbs.org /wgbh/nova/denali/extremes/survcrev.html (202 words)

	[No title]
		In areas where large crevasses exist, more distance may be required between climbers, leaving a less than ideal amount of rope for rescue; this may require modification of crevasse rescue systems.
		Determine rescue method Since the vast majority of crevasse falls are of climbers going in up to their knees, waist, or armpits, the most basic method we’ll call brute force.
		The rescuer that built the anchor should still be tied in at that point and be in position to tend the prusik.
	www.spokanemountaineers.org /public_html/BasicCrevasseRescueProgression.doc (3109 words)

	technical rescue courses
		Rescue techniques are practiced in a "ground-school" setting in our indoor rescue training facility prior to practice in the vertical environment (during the outing).
		The course includes knots (which must be learned and demonstrated prior to participation in the outing course), search types and strategies, planning and control, self rescue and extrication on rock with application to ice and crevasse rescue, improvised transportation systems, and utilization of SAR resources.
		The course self rescue and extrication on rock, crevasse rescue techniques, improvised transportation systems, and a variety of other skills as time, weather and site conditions allow.
	darkwing.uoregon.edu /~opp/rescue/rescuecourses.html (397 words)

	Crevasse Rescue Training for Ski Mountaineers
		This course is designed to introduce or refresh the skills of winter crevasse rescue and will allow opportunity to practice these skills in a safe environment under the watchful eyes of experienced Mountain Guides.
		In winter we must adjust systems to reflect that the person in the crevasse will be wearing skis and also to use skis and other winter gear in making rescue anchors.
		The greater cold makes a crevasse rescue in winter much more serious and it is also more possible that a victim may be unroped.
	www.yamnuska.com /winter_crevasse_rescue.shtml (695 words)

	Crevasse Rescue Systems (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-14)
		It may be possible for the victim to climb out of the crevasse while being belayed from above using the belay or rescue rope.
		The belay rope is belayed in some fashion at the anchor to prevent the victim from falling should the rescuers lose their grip.
		The person who drops the rope to the victim will be the team leader, co-ordinating all aspects of the rescue and must exercise care approaching the edge; staying tied in to the rope or self belaying using a prusik and probing are usually required.
	www.acmg.ca /public/html/tips/techbite/mountaineering/crevasserescuesystems1.asp (425 words)

	Get Outdoors - Glacier Travel: Crevasse Rescue: Special Rescue Situations
		The climber on the rescue side now tries to belay the climber on the wrong side over to the rescue side, assuming that the second person is needed to help in the operation.
		The most advantageous rescue plan now is for the fallen climber to ascend the rope on prusik slings, coming out on the rescue side, where the anchor has been placed.
		A solution to this situation is to set up the main anchor where there is enough room?on the up-rope side of the rescuer in self-arrest (instead of the usual place between the rescuer and the crevasse).
	www.getoutdoors.com /go/golearn/448 (812 words)

	Mt. Rainier Summit Climbs with International Mountain Guides
		The 2-Day Crevasse Rescue School is a comprehensive course designed to give you the knowledge and skill to perform basic and advanced crevasse rescue systems on your own.
		A generous amount of time is allotted for practice of these systems so all participants leave the course with greater confidence in their crevasse rescue skills, and the ability to perform these systems in real life situations.
		The 2-Day Crevasse Rescue School allows plenty of time for learning and practicing these skills in order to truly understand and be able to use them in practical situations on your own.
	www.mountainguides.com /rnr-school2.shtml (648 words)

	Crevasse Rescue Practice with Skis (May 1997)
		Crevasses are the greatest danger facing those who climb or ski on active glaciers.
		These crevasses can be hundreds of feet deep and tens of feet wide on large, active glaciers.
		In case of a crevasse fall by one person, the others on the rope team can haul the victim up the surface using any of several standard pulley systems.
	www.skimountaineer.com /Trips/SkiCrevasse/SkiCrevasse.html (302 words)

	Search and Rescue Training Programs :: NWSOS.com (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-14)
		As you may know, in search and rescue, the only constant is that nothing is ever the same.
		They not only participate in SAR but have also been instrumental in planning and implementing ground and air rescue operations for years.
		The course content is exceptionally practical and ‘common sense.' The level of instruction is cordial and professional.
	www.nwsos.com /rescue.htm (199 words)

	Crevasse Rescue, Mountaineering & Crevasse, University of Calgary OutdoorCentre, Alberta, Canada
		Crevasse Rescue, Mountaineering and Crevasse, University of Calgary OutdoorCentre, Alberta, Canada
		These courses are an excellent introduction to this essential skill for safe glacier travel.
		The Crevasse Rescue 2 course allows you to put your basic skills to practice in an outdoor setting and incorporates anchor building, and introduces self rescue and added mechanical advantage.
	www.calgaryoutdoorcentre.ca /outdoors/mountaineering-and-crevasse/crevasse-rescue (86 words)

	Crevasse rescue training and glacier skills course in British Columbia, Canada
		This techncial rescue course is ideal for Mountaineers with previous glacier travel experience who want to strengthen their Crevasse Rescue skills.
		The Crevasse Rescue Course is is designed to teach a variety of "tried and trusted" crevasse rescue techniques that are currently used in the Mountain Guiding industry.
		This is truly the foundation of any rescue, and climbers should be very proficient in building a variety of anchors appropriate to varying conditions.
	www.themountainschool.com /mountaineering-crevasse-rescue.html (883 words)

	Juneau Mountain Rescue - Home
		Juneau Mountain Rescue, Inc. is a volunteer, nonprofit, educational corporation dedicated to providing technical search and rescue and outdoors rescue and safety training for the Juneau regional area, Alaska, the country, and the world.
		Juneau Mountain Rescue meets at least once a month year-round for field-training sessions as well as twice a year for overnight sessions.
		Rescue work is demanding and JMR volunteers are expected to maintain top physical condition.
	www.juneaumountainrescue.org (692 words)

	Crevasse pictures and videos on Webshots
		The car-size flat boulder broke loose from its pedestal...
		Cotopaxi - ladder in a crevasse close to top.
		1980-01 (i) charlie checks out a crevasse close to ryvi...
	www.webshots.com /search?query=Crevasse (154 words)

	Alaska Heliskiing
		The crevasse and rope rescue course is designed to instruct the guide trainees in the skills necessary to function safely in the high angle mountain environment we find so enjoyable.
		This course is an excellent opportunity to learn the climbing and rescue skills required to operate in high angle and glaciated terrain, as well as refresh and share your skills.
		The rescues are few and far between, but without knowing how to extricate yourself or someone else from the bottom of a crevasse or off of high angle terrain you are in gross negligence of your duties as a ski guide.
	www.alaskaheliskiing.com /flash/guideschool-crevasse.html (689 words)

	crevasse - Search Results - MSN Encarta
		A crevasse is a crack or fissure in a glacier or snow field, formed due to changes in glacier speed.
		Survival Skills: Crevasse Rescue On Denali there is an ever-present danger of falling into a crevasse, so climbers should never travel unroped.
		When a climber falls into a crevasse his/her partners...
	encarta.msn.com /crevasse.html (184 words)

	Glacier Skiing/Snowboarding and Crevasse Rescue Course (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-14)
		For those with competent backcountry skiing or snowboarding skills who desire to safely travel on glaciers and to perform crevasse rescues.
		where the students will practice roped travel and crevasse rescues.
		Techniques Investigation for Instructors: Instructors of this course will investigate alternative crevasse rescue techniques at the field trip.
	www.mountaineers.org /skiing/courses/glacier.htm (266 words)

	North Cascades Mountain Guides - Glacier Travel Training Course
		This is a 3 day program designed to teach you the basics of glacier travel and crevasse rescue.
		Students will have the majority of the day to practice crevasse rescue in a variety of teams.
		The most difficult being the two person team where the entire rescue is performed by one person.
	www.ncmountainguides.com /glacier.html (356 words)

	[No title]
		To: alpine-club AT lists.stanford.edu, climbing AT lists.stanford.edu, redwood AT lists.stanford.edu, powderbound AT lists.stanford.edu Subject: Crevasse Rescue: on-campus clinic, January 27 At the end of this month, SAC will be offering a Crevasse Rescue clinic for novices and experts alike.
		I learned crevasse rescue as part of a glaciology program in which we spent 6 weeks living on the Juneau Icefield, Alaska.
		I learned crevasse rescue a second time last year as part of a climbing and mountaineering course taught by the Mountaineers organization in Seattle.
	www.stanford.edu /group/alpineclub/071crev.txt (910 words)

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