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Topic: Fred Beckey


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  Fred Beckey   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-29)
Fred's mixture of tenacity and boldness tempered by caution and backed by experience, has led to his great success and his survival.
Fred Becky, age 56, on the summit of Mt. Forresta, Alaska, 1979.
Fred was wet and cold, owing to a fall into a crevasse; he was later to be colder, during a bivouac necessitated by an avalanche on the descent.
www.climbaz.com /interviews/beckey.html   (257 words)

  
 Fred Beckey - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Fred Beckey (born Friedrich Wolfgang Beckey in 1923) is a legendary American mountaineer, who has made hundreds of first ascents, more than any other North American climber ever.
He was born in Düsseldorf, Germany, and his family emigrated to the United States when he was three, ending up in Seattle, Washington.
Unlike Jim Whittaker, a fellow Seattleite and the first American to reach the top of Mount Everest, Beckey has always shied away from the large team efforts, preferring smaller alpine-style undertakings.
en.wikipedia.org /wiki/Fred_Beckey   (327 words)

  
 Fred Beckey   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-29)
Calvin Hebert, John Middendorf, and Fred Beckey explored a relatively unknown area of the Alaska Range and climbed the highest peak in the area: Mt Beckey (formerly peak 8500').
Fred's endurance of carrying heavy loads in his ancient framepack amazed me. Surrounding our basecamp, many beautiful unclimbed 1000 foot rock walls rose up, and although we had plenty of technical rock climbing gear delivered by airdrop, we opted instead to climb the mountaineering challenge of Peak 8500, mostly because of the unsettled weather.
Fred Beckey has been climbing since the mid 1930's, and ever since his participation in the first ascent of Forbidden Peak in 1940, Fred has climbed countless first ascents all over the world.
www.bigwalls.net /climb/Freddie.html   (531 words)

  
 Beckey
Fred Beckey is now in his early 80s yet his passion and desire to explore and climb remote mountain ranges has not wavered.
Fred Beckey is not only a pioneer in the world of mountaineering: he is, in a very real sense, a living legend.
Fred Beckey’s life story is just that and to tell it in a powerful, inspiring film gives a unique and special opportunity to span generations and help preserve his incredible life.
www.throughachildseyesproductions.com /Beckey.htm   (935 words)

  
 The Planet - Fall 2002 - Fred Beckey: Married to the Mountain
Even as Beckey discussed his climbing plans, he was recovering from surgery for a hematoma that resulted from a car crash last spring.
Beckey might have become as world renowned as Jim Whittaker, who was part of the first American team to summit Everest in 1963, but his independent attitude didn't fit well with the team's expedition style.
Beckey said he stays busy in the off-season, utilizing the research talents he developed while writing his climbing guidebooks.
planet.wwu.edu /fall02/fredbeckey.htm   (1535 words)

  
 Mountain Gazette   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-29)
Beckey is the object of a complete investigation being conducted by the L.S.E.D and F. to determine the validity of his prodigious (claimed) climbing record — of which serious doubts have been raised.
Beckey spends driving to and from Seattle, talking on the telephone, and shitting, it seems more than likely that he has done virtually no climbing at all, despite the fact that he is reputed to be the oldest climber in the United States.
Fred was a good skier and I thoroughly enjoyed skiing with him, and a conversation with Fred was like being in the presence of a verbal encyclopedia without an index.
mountaingazette.com /art.php?uid=73&...+with+Fred:+(dirtbag+lessons   (3859 words)

  
 Fred Beckey is a living legend of traditional mountaineering
Beckey, whose 80th birthday was Jan. 14, has been climbing throughout the world since he was a teenager growing up in Seattle.
A necessary attribute of a Beckey climbing partner is an ability to depart for the mountains on scant notice when he suddenly phones to propose a new destination.
Beckey was snubbed for a spot on the 1963 American expedition to Mount Everest.
www.traditionalmountaineering.org /News_Beckey.htm   (2617 words)

  
 03SummerGuide
Beckey was first captivated by the climbing opportunities around Washington Pass in the 1940s, becoming the first to summit Liberty Bell via the now-famous Beckey Route in 1946.
In 1952, Beckey was in love with a woman named Vasiliki, and he immortalized her by giving her name to the beautiful and striking Vasiliki Ridge.
One of Beckey’s particularly legendary feats was his marathon first ascent of the South Buttress of Cutthroat Peak in 1958.
www.methow.com /~mv-news/03sum_beckey.htm   (782 words)

  
 [No title]
Beckey turns to the real business of his book with a description of the Sourdough Expedition of 1910, four men who climbed the 19,470 foot north peak of McKinley, the first ascent of McKinley although the climb did not reach McKinley’s highest point.
Beckey reports the Washburn party’s first climb of the West Buttress route to Denali Pass from the Kahiltna Glacier, then on to the south peak, in 1951, a route Washburn had identified as possible based on his aerial photographs of the mountain.
I became acquainted with Beckey as author on reading his history of the exploration and survey of the North Cascade Range (2003) including the survey of the U.S.-Canadian border along the 49th parallel.
home.att.net /~pfrswr/becke_93.doc   (1417 words)

  
 | Book Review | Oregon Historical Quarterly, 104.4 | The History Cooperative
To most outdoor enthusiasts, the name Fred Beckey is indelibly tied to his unsurpassed number of first ascents in the North Cascades and to the trilogy of climbing guides he coauthored.
Beckey's writing tends to be dry, descriptive prose, but it is quite readable and for the most part we found the content accurate.
In this same section, Beckey argues that the National Forests were reduced to checkerboards in the railroad land-granting process, but this was done out of the public domain administered by the U.S. Land Office decades before the Forest Service was created as a federal agency.
www.historycooperative.org /journals/ohq/104.4/br_3.html   (962 words)

  
 Summit Journal '96: Fred Beckey in China   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-29)
Fred Beckey, the 73-year-old grandfather of Cascade climbing, is leading a group of climbers to a virtually unexplored mountain range in the Sichuan Province of China.
Fred returned to Asia the following year, 1993, with an expedition to the "Chinese Alps." Four climbers on that trip reportedly summited the highest peak, 19,915-foot Lamoshe, in a sub-group of the Daxue Shan Range.
Fred caught his first glimpse of these mountains in 1982 when he led a successful expedition to Mount Jiazi (Rudshe Konka), 21,457 feet (6,540 meters).
outside.away.com /peaks/beckey/intro.html   (1058 words)

  
 Devil's Tower, El Matador   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-29)
By the time Fred Beckey arrived on the scene in 1967 to contemplate the elegant cracks and chimneys of El Matador, around 1500 climbers had stood atop Devil's Tower by 34 different routes.
Fred Beckey has a keen eye for aesthetic lines, and the North American Classics collection is replete with his first ascents.
It is not surprising, then, that the dramatic chimney that comprises the middle section of this climb was first ascended, using aid, by the dean of North American climbing, and his equally qualified partner Eric Bjornstad, best know for his desert tower ascents.
naclassics.com /climbs/devtmat/beta.htm   (216 words)

  
 History -Climber Profile- Fred Beckey   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-29)
While most people his age are barely walking around with walkers, Fred is leading climbs at Joshua Tree (and other places too.) He's still traveling around to climbing areas and crags, shakin' it up, and getting down to the business.
Rumors of an early Fred Becky climb in Joshua Tree call," The White Elephant" have been floating around campfire circles for years.
Scrappy, crusty, and older than the dinosaurs, Fred reciently came to Joshua Tree and we have the picture this time to prove it..(Extra, extra).
www.joshuatreeclimb.com /HistoryGuest/profiles/prefredbeckey.htm   (270 words)

  
 Climbing Golden Piton Award Winners   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-29)
A list of Beckey’s partners reads like a Who’s Who of climbing for the past several decades: Fritz Wiessner, Ed Cooper, Galen Rowell, Eric Bjornstad, Pat Callis, Yvon Chouinard, and John Middendorf have all shared a rope with him, to name just a few.
Beckey’s passion for the mountain environment has made him expert in geography, geology, and a host of other naturalist subjects.
Despite having been to 25,000 feet on Lhotse in 1956, Beckey was denied a spot on the 1963 American Everest expedition, though his résumé far outstripped that of any member of the expedition.
www.climbing.com /current/lifetime03   (650 words)

  
 Range of Glaciers
In this first comprehensive account of the nineteenth-century exploration and survey of the Northern Cascades, Fred Beckey presents a wide range of materials from dozens of archives across the United States and beyond: voyagers' logs, trappers' yarns, agency and government documents, official surveys, tall tales, climbers' journals, and sober histories.
The voices, most of them from first-person narratives, range from wonder at the magnificence of the terrain, through frustration with the rigors of its harsh conditions, to the often humorous and sometimes tragic anecdotes of daily life in what was still mostly unexplored wilderness.
Fred Beckey, a legend among mountain climbers, has gained an intimate knowledge of the Cascades through an in-depth study of published and archival sources and personal experience, including numerous first ascents.
www.ohs.org /publications/Range_of_Glaciers.cfm   (304 words)

  
 Summit Journal '96: Fred Beckey in China   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-29)
He, Fred Beckey, and several others recently descended from several weeks of first ascents in the virtually unexplored Da Xue Shan region.
Fred lagged behind planning his next move while the rest of us made tracks for the hot springs at Lao Yuling.
I had been working on a climbing version for Fred while in the mountains but stuck to Don Henley's version while Rich accompanied me. The crowd was appreciative and the bride and groom offered a multitude of toasts with wine and brandy.
outside.away.com /peaks/beckey/961030.html   (735 words)

  
 Argonaut Online News
Famed mountaineer Fred Beckey presented a slideshow of pictures from his climbing expeditions Tuesday evening in the College of Law Courtroom.
Beckey, who has climbed for more than 60 years, showed pictures of mountains and spires from Alaska to Mexico and shared some of his techniques and approaches for scaling them with the audience, who nearly filled the courtroom.
Beckey personally finances almost all of his trips, including plane and helicopter flights into remote areas.
www.argonaut.uidaho.edu /archives/110703/news3.html   (431 words)

  
 North Twin, Dec. 2002
Fred Beckey says: "This is a splendid climb, hard to equal in its difficulty rating; the rock is superb." That about sums it up.
I’d borrowed Fred’s mountain bike, since I don’t have one, and it wasn’t all that comfortable, especially up hill, so I was okay with walking.
Beckey has a very precise diagram of the obstacles to be negotiated, and apparently the Mountaineers route description has even more detailed instructions, but the reality is that there isn’t much of a problem heading up.
home.comcast.net /~tbreit/ntwin.htm   (1238 words)

  
 Fred Beckey is still climbing mountains
"Fred Beckey has achieved enduring recognition as the most imaginative, persistent, and thorough explorer and mountain investigator of the Cascade Range Wilderness.
I was quite impressed with Fred: still as sharp as a tack when it comes to logistics of an expedition, and incredibly fit.
Fred's endurance of carrying heavy loads in his ancient frame pack amazed me. Surrounding our basecamp, many beautiful unclimbed 1000 foot rock walls rose up, and although we had plenty of technical rock climbing gear delivered by airdrop, we opted instead to climb the mountaineering challenge of Peak 8500, mostly because of the unsettled weather.
www.traditionalmountaineering.org /News_FredBeckey.htm   (686 words)

  
 H-Net Review: Jason Pierce on Range of Glaciers: The Exploration and Survey of the Northern Cascade Range
For four hundred pages, Fred Beckey, a mountain climber and author, follows the faint tracks of nearly forgotten trappers and mountain men, the cairns of survey expeditions, and the icy footsteps of the first intrepid Cascade mountaineers as they worked to remove the label "unexplored" from the maps and minds of men.
Beckey's work is a very traditional historical narrative, which is both its greatest strength and its greatest weakness.
Beckey does attempt to explain the underlying motivations of the various expeditions, but sometimes the reader is lost in the litany of explorers, trappers, and climbers related here.
www.h-net.org /reviews/showrev.cgi?path=159171081144618   (913 words)

  
 Devil's Thumb   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-29)
The reaction of Fred Beckey, the foremost exploring alpinist on the continent in the 20th century, was ambition to be the first on the summit.
Not to be deterred, Beckey simply cached their gear and supplies and hiked back out to convince other climbers to come join him for another go.
In a testament to the size and seriousness of the venture, the mountain was not even attempted again for 24 years.
www.naclassics.com /climbs/devilthm/beta.htm   (424 words)

  
 Icon to some, legendary climber Beckey still obscure to many   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-29)
He quickly became a prolific climber, sometimes with his Boy Scout troop, and was only 16, in 1939, when he reached his first unclimbed summit, Mount Despair, a North Cascades peak that a Mountaineers publication had deemed unclimbable.
Although still the organizer, researcher, route-finder and leader of expeditions into little-known parts of China and Alaska, he often lets a younger, stronger climber make the summit climb and, on a rock climb, might let a younger colleague lead the pitch.
Beckey will host a slide show and discussion and sign copies of his new book at the University of Washington's Kane Hall, Room 130.
seattlepi.nwsource.com /local/111703_beckey08.shtml   (2802 words)

  
 Climbs in Rogers Pass, Canada (Reports) - 2003 - Jim Frankenfield
With a lot of shouting into Freds ear over the wind I managed to convey to him that I might not be able to continue all the way with them anyway due to time constraints.
This elicited no response from Fred but Jims reply to my inquiry of what he made of it was that Fred was absorbing this information.
The chance to spend a day with a legend like Fred is a rare privilege, although his poor hearing was a disappointment and this kind of climbing is probably too much for him now.
www.snowman-jim.org /climbing/climbs/2003-09-rogerspass/report.htm   (3914 words)

  
 Oregon Section AAC - Fred Beckey Award   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-29)
The Fred Beckey award is a new award the Oregon Section proposed and was granted the right to present, either yearly, or less frequently depending on the availability of suitable recipients.
If the above criteria, or their like, are applied to the process of deciding who shall receive this award of a regular basis, we hope the over all effect will be to the benefit and enhancement of climbing.
In sum, Fred Beckey set standards that few of us could hope to equal, but it is not the standards per se that will qualify someone for this award, as much as it is the 'spirit' of their activity, and its kindredness to the legacy of Fred.
ors.alpineclub.org /AAC/beckey_award.html   (984 words)

  
 Zion History
Fred Beckey had gained permission after sending a letter to the park guaranteeing a Seattle based rescue team on call, and particulars of each of the original team member's experience: Warren Harding, Galen Rowell, Eric Bjornstadt, and Fred Beckey.
By the time permission had actually been granted, the team changed to Fred Beckey and Galen Rowell and Pat Callis, who spent several days preparing the lower section, and made the first ascent on May 5-7, 1967.
George Lowe, Karl Dunn, Dick Bell, Robert Sears, Peter Gibbs and others were also active in the mid to late 1960's with technical ascents of many formations, including the west face of Bridge Mountain in 1965, the east face of Sentinel in 1966, the Twin Brothers in 1968, and Mt. Spry in 1970.
www.bigwalls.net /climb/Zionhis.html   (1090 words)

  
 Washington Climbing History in a Nutshell   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-29)
Fred Beckey, Wes Grande and Jack Schwabland climb Midway, on Castle Rock, near Leavenworth.
Fred Beckey, and Ron Nocccoli climb Outer Space, on Snow Creek Wall near Leavenworth.
Fred Beckey and Eric Bjornstead publish Washington's first rock climbing guidebook, Guide to Leavenworth Rock Climbing Areas.
www.washingtonclimbers.org /Misc/History.htm   (518 words)

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