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	Broad Peak: Some background and History
		Other important members of the party were Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger, climber and photographer and a legendary mountaineer, and Hermann Buhl, who is considered one of the best known postwar Austrian climbers and the first climber to Summit Nanga Parbat.
		It was, however, on June 9th, 1957 that Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger and Hermann Buhl climbed the peak without using oxygen and high altitude porters.
		It was after this climb that Schmuck and Wintersteller climbed an un-named peak (7360 meters).
	www.everestnews.com /stories024/bphistory.htm (1670 words)

	Guardian \| Marcus Schmuck
		Wintersteller was prodigiously strong - his family were known locally as "the bulls" - and happily good-natured.
		According to their diaries, Schmuck and Wintersteller felt Diemberger was not pulling his weight.
		Despite a sense of betrayal at Buhl's behaviour, all four climbers returned to the mountain in early June, battling the thin air and steep slopes to reach the summit on June 9.
	www.guardian.co.uk /print/0,3858,5282487-103684,00.html (929 words)

	List of Climbers Encyclopedia Article @ Climbed.org (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-22)
		First ascent Broad Peak (1957) with Wintersteller, Schmuck and Buhl.
		First ascent of Gasherbrum II 1956 with Fritz Moravec and Hans Willenpart.
		Fritz Wiessner (1900–1988) - Born Dresden emigrated U.S. ; Pioneer of free climbing; notable 1939 expedition to K2
	www.climbed.org /encyclopedia/List_of_climbers (3812 words)

	Broad Peak 8047m News and History
		Bonington's account is consistent with what Fritz Wintersteller told me, namely, that all four had agreed that they would clear their own personal gear, as well as their share of the expedition gear, such as tentage.
		This was further agravated by Schmuck and Wintersteller's anger that Buhl and Diemberger had not cleared their gear on their descent, and that they had taken unjustifiable risk in going to the summit so late.
		On seeing the published account, Wintersteller and Schmuck contacted Sale to register their sense of betrayal that the version published was not consistent with what they had told him.
	www.broadpeak.org /news.php?news_id=35&w=news&l=en (1628 words)

	Fritz Todt : Sirchin (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-22)
		Fritz Todt (September 4, 1891 – February 8, 1942) was a German engineer and senior Nazi figure, the founder of Organisation Todt.
		Fritz Todt, membre du parti nazi depuis 1922, qui va donner son nom à une énorme et puissante organisation destinée au départ à la construction des premiers autoroutes du Reich mais ce n’est qu’en 1938 que cet...
		Fritz Todt op als minister van bewapening en munitie, en sedert augustus 1941 als inspecteur generaal voor water en energie.
	sirchin.com /?topic:fritz-todt (455 words)

	2007 will be the Year of Broad Peak - InfoHub
		Other important members of the party were Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger and Hermann Buhl, who is considered one of the best known post-war Austrian climbers and the first climber to Summit Nanga Parbat.
		Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reached the Forepeak (8030 m) but fog and the late hour forced them to return to Camp III.
		However, on June 9, 1957 Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller reached the summit together at 5.05pm.
	www.infohub.com /forums/showthread.php?p=22455&mode=threaded (628 words)

	Broad Peak - 1st page (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-22)
		Other important members of the party were Fritz Wintersteller, a climber; Kurt Diemberger, the Austrian climber, photographer and legendary mountaineer; and Hermann Buhl, who was then considered one of the best known postwar Austrian climbers.
		On the 29th May, all members of the expedition left Camp III for an assault on the summit: storm forced them to return to Base Camp.
		Yet against all odds, the 9th June 1957 found Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger and Hermann Buhl on the peak, without oxygen or high altitude porters.
	www.cinetrip.hu /explorers/broad_e.html (267 words)

	* Askole Treks & Tours – Mountaineering in Pakistan *
		The approach route from Skardu and the approach trek from the Askole village on the Baltoro Glacier.
		Fritz Moravec along with Joseph Larch and Hans Willenpart came to Pakistan in 1956 to climb this peak.
		Fritz Moravec, Joseph Larch, and Hansenpart reached the summit of Gasherbrum-II on 8
	askole.hypermart.net /mountaineering.html (2109 words)

	* Askole Treks & Tours – Mountaineering in Pakistan *
		The approach route from Skardu and the approach trek from the Askole village on the Baltoro Glacier.
		Fritz Moravec along with Joseph Larch and Hans Willenpart came to Pakistan in 1956 to climb this peak.
		Fritz Moravec, Joseph Larch, and Hansenpart reached the summit of Gasherbrum-II on 8
	www.askole.com /mountaineering.html (2109 words)

	Independent Online Edition > Obituaries
		Alongside him, similarly attired, was Fritz Wintersteller, his partner in one of the outstanding events in post-war mountaineering - the first ascent of Broad Peak in the Pakistan Karakoram.
		Of the four young Austrians who reached the 8,047m summit on 9 June 1957, Schmuck and Wintersteller were the first to the top by a country mile.
		The names of Schmuck and Wintersteller were largely forgotten, at least in the Anglo-Saxon world, until last year when the writer Richard Sale brought out Broad Peak, reassessing the expedition and bringing the first summit pair back centre stage.
	news.independent.co.uk /people/obituaries/article318043.ece (1038 words)

	Reference.com/Encyclopedia/Broad Peak
		The first ascent of Broad Peak was made on June 9, 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl of an Austrian expedition led by Marcus Schmuck.
		A first attempt by the team was made on May 29 where Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reached the forepeak (8,030m).
		On the same expedition, Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller made a flash first ascent of Skil Brum peak (7,360m) on June 19, 1957 in pure Alpine style in 53 hours.
	www.reference.com /browse/wiki/Broad_Peak (384 words)

	Marcus Schmuck \| Obituaries \| News \| Telegraph
		They chose Fritz Wintersteller, who had been with Schmuck on Spitsbergen.
		Schmuck and Wintersteller, who were the stronger, reached a col below what was believed to be the summit first; but Schmuck, in an incident which typified the man, waited for Buhl, who was having an off-day, so that they could climb the last metres together.
		It was the most important climb of its sort on the world's highest peaks to that time, and it would be 20 years before anyone else attempted what they had achieved.
	www.telegraph.co.uk /news/main.jhtml?xml=/news/2005/08/29/db2901.xml&sSheet=/portal/2005/08/29/ixportal.html (894 words)

	BROAD PEAK SEMINAR
		Austrian climbers Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller, who were the first to reach the summit of Broad Peak, are coming from Salzburg, Austria to participate in this seminar.
		In the past, the roles of the massively strong Schmuck and the talented Wintersteller have been downplayed, even though they performed brilliantly as a team and made the first ascent of the peak.
		We had to pay them for the glasses, but avoided a conflict.” Saeed was devastated by the death of Buhl, and tears still come to his eyes when he describes Diemberger coming to the camp with the news.
	www.it.ca /pipermail/acc-updates/2005q2/000528.html (659 words)

	OBITUARY: MARCUS SCHMUCK; Leader of the first ascent of Broad Peak Independent, The (London) - Find Articles
		Alongside him, similarly attired, was Fritz Wintersteller, his partner in one of the outstanding events in post-war mountaineering " the first ascent of Broad Peak in the Pakistan Karakoram.
		However their achievement was eclipsed by the subsequent death of their better-known companion Hermann Buhl " hero of Nanga Parbat " and the literary and photographic skills of the other, Kurt Diemberger.
		The first summit bid ended with Wintersteller and Diemberger reaching the mountain's forepeak, struggling in the thin air " six breaths for each step " and an icy wind.
	www.findarticles.com /p/articles/mi_qn4158/is_20051008/ai_n15671226 (932 words)

	Explorersweb - the pioneers checkpoint
		Other important members of the party were Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger - and Hermann Buhl - considered one of the best known post-war Austrian climbers and the first to Summit Nanga Parbat.
		On May 29, Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reached the Forepeak (8030 m) but fog and the late hour forced them to return to Camp III.
		On June 9, 1957 finally, Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller reached the summit at 5.05 pm, followed by Kurt Diemberger at 5.50 pm, and last Hermann Buhl.
	www.explorersweb.com /news.php?id=15567 (980 words)

	Inhaltsseite (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-22)
		In 1957 a small Austrian expedition group is successful for the very first time on Broad Peak (8.047 m).
		HERMANN BUHL, MARKUS SCHMUCK, KURT DIEMBERGER and FRITZ WINTERSTELLER form a powerful striking team which turns out to be a complete success.
		They break through, applying a style that never had been seen before and which is far ahead of their time.
	www.mountainfuture.at /english/programs/0035Diemberger.htm (243 words)

	0953863115 : 9780953863112:Broad Peak (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-22)
		This book, written by Marcus Schmuck, the leader of the expedition, was never translated from its German original, so the Broad Peak expedition was known chiefly from the account of Kurt Diemberger who has been Buhl’s companion on his last climb.
		Now for the first time, using the original climbing diaries of Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller, and previously unpublished material from Hermann Buhl as well as the recollection of both Diemberger and Qader Saeed, the team’s Pakistani liaison officer, the fully story of the expedition is told.
		The book is illustrated with previously unpublished photographs from Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller.
	www.gazellebookservices.co.uk /ISBN/0953863115.htm (216 words)

	Mountains - (Broad Peak)
		Other important members of the party were Fritz Wintersteller, a climber, Kurt Diemberger, an Austrian climber and photographer and a legendary mountaineer, and Hermann Buhl, who is considered as one of the best known postwar Austrian climbers.
		The expedition began a reconnaissance of a ridge on the western face of the mountain.
		It was after this climb that Schmuck and Wintersteller climbed an un-named peak (7,360m/24,147ft).
	www.pearltours.com.pk /peaks/broad.htm (541 words)

	Fourteen Giants
		First ascent in 1956 by Fritz Luchsinger and Ernst Reiss.
		First ascent in 1957 by Hermann Bhul, Kurt Diemberger, Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller.
		First ascent in 1956 by Sepp Larch, Fritz Moravec, and Hans Willenpart.
	greglange.com /fourteen_giants.html (238 words)

	Mountaineering Books S-Z (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-22)
		Sale drew upon the climbing diaries of Schmuck and Wintersteller, accounts written by Buhl, and conversations with Diemberger and Qader Saeed, the expedition's Pakistani liaison officer.
		Additionally, there is an account of Buhl's last climb and death on Chogolisa from the protocol written by the surviving team members on the day Diemberger returned to Base Camp after the accident.
		Broad Peak is long overdue for an english-language account of this important first ascent of an 8000m peak by a very small team.
	www.topworldbooks.com /mountaineering_s-z.htm (9857 words)

	Reference.com/Encyclopedia/Hermann Buhl
		Buhl is the only mountaineer to have made the first ascent of an eight-thousander solo.
		Just a few weeks after the successful first ascent of Broad Peak (with Fritz Wintersteller and Marcus Schmuck), Buhl and Kurt Diemberger made an attempt on nearby, unclimbed Chogolisa peak (7654 metres) in alpine style.
		Buhl died when he fell through a cornice on the southeast ridge near the summit of Chogolisa.
	www.reference.com /browse/wiki/Hermann_Buhl (308 words)

	Letters \| Alpinist
		Otherwise, the risk of "soiling" any enterprise becomes inevitable, with the consequence that the entire history of alpinism is put in doubt.
		Regarding Samantha Sacks' "Revision of History" (Issue 14), which is mainly concerned with my book Broad Peak: on behalf of myself, Qader Saeed, Fritz Wintersteller, and the two sons of Marcus Schmuck, I'd like to respond to some of its inaccuracies.
		But finally, Sacks' suggestion that Schmuck and Wintersteller disappeared into obscurity would astonish the Austrian climbing community.
	www.alpinist.com /doc/_print/ALP16/Letters (1106 words)

	List of Austrian Mountaineers Encyclopedia Article @ Entertainre.com (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-22)
		Fritz Moravec, first ascent of Gasherbrum II together with Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart
		Fritz Wintersteller, first ascent of Broad Peak (1957)
		Matthias Auckenthaler, mountaineer (first climb of north face of Furchetta)
	www.entertainre.com /encyclopedia/List_of_Austrian_mountaineers (388 words)

	Untitled Document
		Broad Peak - Pakistan/China - 8,047 - 26,400 - M. Schmuck, F. Wintersteller, K. Diemberger, H. Buhl - Austria - June 9, 1957.
		Gasherbrum II (K4) - Pakistan/China - 8,035 - 26,360 - Fritz Moravec, Joseph S. Larch, Hans Willenpart - Austria - July 7, 1956.
		Shishapangma - Tibet - 8,013 - 26,289 - Hsu Ching and team of 9 - China - May 2, 1964.
	college.holycross.edu /projects/himalayan_cultures/2006/hkaiter/The_Himalayas.htm (1016 words)

	Gripped News
		One of the most impressive Himalayan ascents of the last century was Austrian party of Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger and Hermann Buhl’s 1957 first ascent of Pakistan’s 8,047 m Broad Peak.
		This was achieved by a small team without artificial oxygen who ferried all the loads to the high camps.
		Saeed was devastated by the death of Buhl, and tears still come to his eyes when he describes Diemberger coming to the camp with the news.
	www.gripped.com /News/34_apr_2005 (3598 words)

	ADIQ Alpinisti Diabetici In Quota
		The first ascent took place in 1957, by a group made of four well-prepared and determined Austrian climbers.
		Lead by Marcus Schumck, Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger and the legendary Herman Buhl, the small expedition reached the summit the night of June 9
		Diemberger reached the summit and on his descent he met Buhl, who still suffering from the frost bite injuries he acquired on Nanga Parbat, was still struggling determinedly upward.
	www.adiq.org /k2004/mountain.htm (479 words)

	The Daily Mail - Daily News from Pakistan - Newspaper from Pakistan
		Then they will move to Chogolisa (also known as the Bride Peak) where they would attempt a ski ascent and descent, its report added.
		It said, Broad Peak was first climbed on June 9, 1957, by four Austrians - Hermann Buhl, Kurt Diemberger, Fritz Wintersteller, and Marcus Schmuck andthere ascent became historic.
		For the first time an 8,000-meter peak was climbed without the aid of high-altitude porters.
	www.dailymailnews.com /200606/15/news/dmcitypage03.html (390 words)

	The Boardman Tasker Prize
		The book is in turns funny, sad, thrilling and infuriating as one is suddenly confronted with such a rapid decline of a giant personality in our sport.
		A new and somewhat controversial account of the first ascent of Broad Peak in 1957, largely using material made available by the first men to the summit, Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller.
		The book attempts to tell the full story of the climb and also reveals more about the death of Hermann Buhl on Chogolisa.
	www.boardmantasker.com /site/shortlist2005.htm (290 words)

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