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Topic: Icefall


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In the News (Tue 15 Dec 09)

  
  Icefall - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
A smaller icefall is to be found on the Athabasca Glacier in Banff National Park in Alberta, Canada (photo at right).
Icefalls are often the object of an ice climber's visions of conquest.
Perhaps the most popular of all is the Khumbu Icefall on the Nepalese side of Mount Everest, variously described as "treacherous" and "dangerous".
en.wikipedia.org /wiki/Icefall   (275 words)

  
 1998 Mount Everest Expedition Cybercast   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-20)
The slow, steady flow of ice is imperceptible, but not all of the Icefall's movements are slow, some are sudden.
Before entering the Icefall, Eric and I stop at the Lhapsung, a stone altar built by the Sherpas as a place of worship.
I've watched helplessly as 11 climbers vanished in a cloud of white, buried alive, in the collapse of ice.
classic.mountainzone.com /everest/98/climb4-30icefall.html   (838 words)

  
 Ghosts of Rainier: Icefall in 1981 entombed 11 climbers   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-20)
Nineteen years after the icefall at dawn on Sunday, June 21, 1981, the 11 men are still entombed in the blue ice of Mount Rainier.
When rangers explained the danger in trying to recover the bodies, that the crevasse was so deep and unstable the searchers could die, she and the families of the other victims agreed the men should be left on the mountain.
The board determined the icefall was random and related to the movement of the glacier.
seattlepi.nwsource.com /ghostsofrainier/fall302.shtml   (2245 words)

  
 Fixed ropes   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-20)
Luckily enough, it has at least become standard that the icefall is fixed by a sherpa "icefall doctor" and all expeditions have to pay.
The reliable Icefall doctor sherpa from earlier years was replaced by a new (probably cheaper) not so reliable one, hired by a commercial expedition leader new to the task.
The icefall doctor in 1999 actually left the icefall unmaintained on several occasions, causing us to pull as many as every second screw at times.
www.mounteverest.net /guide/ropes.htm   (1016 words)

  
 STUDYING ICE FALLS
The ice that constitutes an icefall is finely polycrystalline and usually shows layering when a thin sample of the ice is viewed under polarized light.
The layering is seen as a variation of crystal size across the section and this is related to episodes of additional ice accretion due to rainfall and meltwater.
Once the basic icefall forms, the details will be determined by the pathways of flowing water that will freeze and add mass to the icefall.
www.blueiceonline.com /howsite/icefall_about.html   (381 words)

  
 Earth As Art - Icefall, Lambert Glacier, Antarctica   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-20)
The focal point of this image is an icefall that feeds into the Lambert glacier from the vast ice sheet covering the polar plateau.
Cracks can be seen in this icefall as it bends and twists on its slow-motion descent 1300 feet (400 meters) to the glacier below.
This Icefall can be found on Landsat 7 WRS Path 42 Row 133/134/135, center: -70.92, 69.15.
landsat.gsfc.nasa.gov /earthasart/icefall.html   (117 words)

  
 Bold Type: Excerpt by Jon Krakauer
There was certainly no lack of steep ice in the Khumbu Icefall, but all of it had been rigged with ladders or ropes or both, rendering the conventional tools and techniques of ice climbing largely superfluous.
If the Icefall required few orthodox climbing techniques, it demanded a whole new repertoire of skills in their stead--for instance, the ability to tiptoe in mountaineering boots and crampons across three wobbly ladders lashed end to end, bridging a sphincter-clenching chasm.
Three-quarters of the way to Camp One, Hall remarked at a rest stop that the Icefall was in better shape than he'd ever seen it: "The route's a bloody freeway this season." But only slightly higher, at 19,000 feet, the ropes brought us to the base of a gargantuan, perilously balanced serac.
www.randomhouse.com /boldtype/0598/krakauer/excerpt.html   (1883 words)

  
 icefall_en   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-20)
Trio Ruchkin - Mikhailov - Totmjanin went 16 pitches at the icefall and returned to the tent, which was set by Odintsov and Pershin at the bottom of the icefall.
At the other side (the right part of the icefall) it seems that all ice have fallen down clearing the rock.
Icefall is very dangerous part of the route now - ice is in bad conditions.
www.russianclimb.com /jannu/icefall_en.html   (670 words)

  
 Mt. Everest 2005: Waldemar Niclevicz: Fatalities on Everest
It was then that the Icefall started to reveal itself, while the fog was receding and, on its top, a group of men was clearly seen on the whiteness of the blocks of ice.
It had snowed also on the Icefall, a lot of crevasses and the infinite holes between the blocks of ice were covered by the snow, an immense danger for anyone who tried to pass there.
The truth is that the Icefall, no matter how well rigged it is with the fixed cords and ladders installed by the SPCC crew, it will always be a "Russian roulette", a way to minimize the risks is passing there the least number of times possible.
www.everestnews.com /exp2005/wmeverest2005-05022005.htm   (886 words)

  
 Berg Adventures International: Everest Expedition 2003   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-20)
So as we moved through the Icefall today, we’re encouraged that maybe the winds are turning down in the right direction.
Speaking of the Icefall, I ought to mention, since this was almost certainly our last trip up through the Icefall with one more trip down coming after our summit attempt, interesting route this year.
The last time we came down the Icefall, we noticed there were only four sections there so we know you kind of had to jump off the bottom ladder.
wallyberg.com /cybercasts/everest0903/ev_0903_38.html   (687 words)

  
 NFB 2001 Everest Expedition ( Kim Johnson 04-13-2001)
So, being in my boots at the edge of the Khumbu Icefall when the NFB Everest Climbing Team returned from their first voyage up, through, over and back down the Khumbu Icefall was a choice spot.
Before entering the icefall, Erik Weihenmayer thought that crossing the ladders was going to be the worst part of the icefall.
After the icefall experience, some of the climbers have "found religion" and others want to hit the beaches in Thailand.
www.2001everest.com /ev-live/04-13-2001   (697 words)

  
 John Amatt's Global Adventures - Story of the 1982 Canadian Mount Everest Expedition
Half way up the icefall is a frightening zone of deep crevasses and huge seracs (pillars of ice formed when a glacier splits apart), where the route tiptoes across ice-blocks wedged into 150’ deep crevasses below the level of the icefield.
After a cup of tea they stumble to the foot of the 3,000-foot fixed rope up through the icefall and begin the day’s carry by the light of lamps on their helmets.
Amatt, who would no longer be permitted to carry through the icefall returns to Kathmandu to act as expedition spokesman and interpret the climb against a rash of ill-informed coverage.
www.adventureattitude.com /ev82soc.htm   (5106 words)

  
 Discovery Channel :: Five American women climb Everest.
Today they climb the Khumbu icefall, the most dangerous and unpredictable section of the mountain.
The entire Khumbu icefall requires clipping and unclipping from fixed lines (ropes attached to the mountain with pickets buried in the snow), and crossing dark, bottomless crevasses on shaky aluminum ladders while wearing metal spikes on your feet.
Their job is to supply Dave with extra sets of "guide eyes." Experience is what gives them this ability to see the big picture, such as dangerous steps to avoid and important places to crack the whip.
dsc.discovery.com /convergence/everest/dispatches/dispatch08.html   (769 words)

  
 NOVA Online | Everest Quest | Through the Icefall (3)
Riddled with deep crevasses and huge ice blocks, the Icefall can only be traversed with the use of ladders and rope.
With the puja behind them, the climbers are ready to venture into the Icefall and climb up to Camp 1, which sits at 19,900 feet in the Western Cwm, a large glacial valley of snow riddled with crevasses.
Predawn is the best time to start as the sun quickly melts the ice and snowpack, making the route not only blinding and hot, but more susceptible to moving and fragmentation.
pbs.org /wgbh/nova/everest/expeditions/96/week2/icefall/icefall3.html   (267 words)

  
 Ski Touring
This deep snow pack is evidenced by the many glaciers in the area.
In fact Icefall Lodge provides ski access to the largest glaciers of any hut on the Continent.
While it may not be best to cross this pass in poor weather, it is often possible to access this valley in marginal weather.
www.icefall.ca /ski_touring.htm   (565 words)

  
 Ibex Icefall Jacket and Glacier Vest @ Backpacking Light
Both the Icefall and Glacier use Ibex’ Climawool™ Lite, which is similar to Schoeller Dynamic.
At only 1.5 ounces lighter than Cloudveil's Serendipity (the gold standard of softshell jackets), the Icefall is less wind and water resistant, but has a wider comfort range across the temperature spectrum than the Serendipity.
One key benefit of the Icefall: after several continuous days of skiing, climbing, and sweating in it and not washing it, it resisted odor very well, when we couldn't wait to get home to throw our all-synthetic stretchwovens in the wash under similar conditions.
backpackinglight.com /cgi-bin/backpackinglight/00109?forum_thread_id=7   (2296 words)

  
 Everest Khumbu Icefall Climb
Although there is no set course prerequisite for the Khumbu Icefall Extension, prior climbing experience and competence in ice axe, crampons and fixed rope skills is absolutely required.
While we are hanging out at base camp we can hike to the base of the icefall to get a closer view of the route that weaves its way through enormous jumbled seracs.
Team members will climb their way through the icefall with its ice seracs and crevasses while using fixed ropes and ladders.
www.mountainmadness.com /sevensummits/everest2.cfm   (2144 words)

  
 [No title]
After a couple of pitches, we exited the icefall on the right, at the top of a snow field.
There, we saw tracks in the snow heading up toward a large, wide crevasse that extended from the top of the icefall to the rocks on the right-hand side of the glacier.
View of the icefall from the base of the route.
www.speakeasy.org /~sramsey/climbing/triplog/200310-chiwawa   (1474 words)

  
 The Case of the Spanish Icefall
Anomalous icefalls are exceedingly rare but they are not unknown.
There are some similarities in historic reports of icefalls but also variance.
The ice balls were found to contain air bubbles, layering, ammonia, silica and specific isotopes – all of which were characteristic of hailstones matching the composition of rainwater.
mywebpages.comcast.net /scientia/icefall.htm   (1118 words)

  
 Skiing Everest on MountainZone.com   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-20)
We're at the top of Khumbu Icefall at Camp I. At Camp I our Avocet altimeters are reading at about 19,560 to 19,600m.
As Maegan reached the top seracs and approached Camp I, we were video taping her carrying her skis through the Icefall.
It's interesting, over the years, I've known most of the Icefall Doctors and they are always praying when they have a free moment.
ski.mountainzone.com /2003/everest/dispatch15.html   (597 words)

  
 [No title]   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-20)
The June Lake Icefall is a classic place to iceclimb in winter.
We wanted to climb the main Horseshoe Icefall, but it did not look very solid, and a huge piece of ice crashing next to us while we were looking for a possible route made us change our mind.
We climbed another shorter icefall on the side, which looked in good condition.
www.galcit.caltech.edu /~ericw/iceclimbing/june_icefall/june.html   (105 words)

  
 A Historical Perspective on the South Col Route
When a glacier increases in gradient, it turns into an "icefall." This icefall, especially the Khumbu Icefall, is an amazingly chaotic jumble of ice blocks of all sizes.
The group, run by a British individual, was awarded the contract for this spring 2002 season, and the maintenance effort has been very short on supplies, manpower, tools, and perhaps experience to properly do their job.
This "valley of silence" was first traversed by the Swiss expedition of 1952, who in fact pioneered most of the route on the upper mountain and came very close to the summit the year before the British success in 1953.
www.alpineascents.com /everest-south-col-route.asp   (1554 words)

  
 Icefall, Lambert Glacier, Antarctica Space Colour Backgrounds - - polyphonics.au.com | Ringtones, Polyphonic, Logos, ...   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-20)
Icefall, Lambert Glacier, Antarctica Space Colour Backgrounds - - polyphonics.au.com
Icefall, Lambert Glacier, Antarctica Space Colour Backgrounds -.
If you have not received a response after sending the first message then there may be an issue with your network provider or our system which we will investigate and quickly resolve for you.
polyphonics.au.com /view-2966-colour_backgrounds-icefall_lambert_glacier_antarctica_space-nz.html   (536 words)

  
 Presentation of our Sherpas and preparation of the Khumbu icefall   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-20)
On Wednesday March 31, Andrés helped the team of Sherpas who are responsible for installing ladders in the icefall.
The work is supervised by a man called the ice doctor who has expert knowledge of the Khumbu icefall.
Andrés had the opportunity to collaborate in this work and was impressed by the strength and endurance of those Sherpas along with their friendliness.
www.everest2004.ca /anglais/icefall_prep.htm   (283 words)

  
 Kennecott to Stairway Icefall
Continue on the main trail parallel to the glacier for approximately 2 miles.
Follow the top of the moraine until you are cut off by a steep ridge.
This is a beautiful spot which offers one of the best views of the Stairway Icefall.
www.nps.gov /wrst/trails/stairway.html   (835 words)

  
 [No title]   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-20)
The Whitney icefall is located on the approach to the Mountaineer's Route at Mount Whitney.
It is a 3-hour approach to get there and the icefall is usually in condition from the end of November till the beginning of June.
It was getting hot and we noticed that the ice around our icescrews at the top was starting to melt over: time to change them...
www.galcit.caltech.edu /~ericw/iceclimbing/Whitney_icefall/WI.html   (175 words)

  
 Ibex Icefall Jacket at ProLiteGEAR - Free Shipping!
Icefall Jacket - Lightweight and highly packable, Ibex's Icefall full-front zipper softshell jacket is ideal transitional weather protection for hiking, camping and climbing.
It's made with an innovative Climawool™ Lite fabric that consists of stretch woven nylon and Lycra® on the outer face and thin layer of napped merino wool along the inner face.
The fabric is different from earlier Schoeller-equipped incarnations, but the Icefall's consistent warmth-to-weight ratio still makes it a practical and comfortable alternative to a sweater or heavy shirt.
www.prolitegear.com /ibex-icefall-jacket.html   (171 words)

  
 Earth Science Picture of the Day   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-20)
Much as the hanging dam at the eaves of a house roof provide the anchor for icicles, the frazil ice becomes the natural beginning of an icefall.
Once the basic icefall forms, the details will be determined by the pathways of flowing water that freeze and add mass to the frozen falls.
Many of the larger icefalls are well-suited for climbing.
epod.usra.edu /archive/epodviewer.php3?oid=85216   (156 words)

  
 CascadeClimbers.com - The Pacific Northwest Climbers Resource: Mt. Maude - Entiat Icefall
The Entiat Icefall is a challenging route with true alpine style.
There is an interesting step-across at the top of the Yoder couloir, but up high on the ridge it is mostly 3rd class.
The upper sections can actually be step kicking in early season, but the best time to climb for ice in the icefall is August-later season.
www.cascadeclimbers.com /threadz/showflat.php?Number=49115&page=   (916 words)

  
 Trekinfo.com - Khumbu icefall
If there are expeditions at base camp, you probably won't be welcomed because trekkers have been known to steal things from expedition camps.
Apart from that they were always welcome and sometimes eased the monotony of weeks of sitting around at base camp!.
With regard to the icefall, you can get to it no problem but I'm not sure you can go very far without a climbing permit.
www.trekinfo.com /forums/showthread.php?t=1797   (241 words)

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