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 | | Such is the obsession with fish, it would be sacrilege to suggest that any part be discarded – the head is either fried crisp, or cooked into a flavoursome stew with vegetables and daal. |
 | | The golden mustard oil, once stored in row after row of zinc-lined tins, next to enormous terracotta jars of rice in the bhandar ghar; continues to give Bengali cuisine its biting, sharp flavour, along with mustard sauce (kasundi) and the magical paanch phoron spice mix. |
 | | Then comes the much awaited fish course, which could be the wonderful bhaapa ilish, which has cut pieces of hilsa mixed with a mayonnaise-like paste of ground mustard seeds, mustard oil, red and green chillies, turmeric and salt; wrapped in an airtight package of banana leaves and cooked along with rice. |
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