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| | A scientific study of common friction knots |
 | | The standard advice that a knot should be tested for suitability prior to use is probably reasonably sound for climbers, cavers, mountaineers and vertical rescuers, who are accustomed to exercising careful judgment based on extensive development of skills and acquisition of sound knowledge. |
 | | Generally, the next best performing knot for protecting an abseil was the Bachmann knot which performed satisfactorily in about 32% of cases, (19 out of 60 tests), was not recommended in 20% of circumstances and was definitely unsatisfactory or unsafe in 48% of tests. |
 | | The Klemheist knot, properly tied, was safely useable in the smallest percentage of tests, 7% (5 out of 72 tests), was not recommended in 12.5 % and was unsatisfactory or unsafe in 80.5% of tests. |
| www.stanford.edu /group/alpineclub/info/frictionknots.htm (4573 words) |
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