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Topic: Lino Lacedelli

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	Everest - Mount Everest by climbers, news
		Lacedelli now admits leaving Bonatti’s bivouac site at about 7:30 instead of the 6:15 given in the official account written by Desio, so that fits in with Bonatti’s claim that they absolutely couldn’t have reached it before 7 AM when he lost view of the bivouac site from Camp 8.
		Lacedelli explained later in a Dave Roberts interview that this was to “warm their breath” (4).
		Lacedelli, present at K2 as part of the Italian 2004 Fifty Year Anniversary climb, even attempted to call Bonatti from the mountain but was refused.
	www.mounteverest.net /news.php?id=10102 (2015 words)

	K2climb.net - K2 and Karakorum by climbers, news
		While Lino Lacedelli and Achile Compagnony were celebrated as national heroes; a furious Walter Bonatti accused the two summiteers to have abandoned him in the death zone.
		Compagnoni and Lacedelli’s epic ascent of the crux of the route — the serac-threatened Bottleneck and the horribly exposed and icy Traverse to the summit slopes — is a classic of mountaineering literature.
		Lacedelli and Compagnoni were national heroes, and Italian pride justifiably swelled to fill the gap left by the destruction of the Second World War.
	www.k2climb.net /news.php?id=10100 (1977 words)

	libri
		Lacedelli dá grande risalto alla querelle tra Bonatti e Compagnoni, sia per la posizione del campo 9 spostato piú in alto di quanto concordato tra di loro, sulla questione dell'ora di partenza dal campo 9, sull'esaurimento delle bombole prima dell'arrivo in vetta, sui rapporti tra il gruppo di alpinisti e il capo-spedizione Desio.
		In tutti i punti, fuori che su quello della durata delle bombole in cui non transige assolutamente, Lacedelli da ragione a Bonatti, riconoscendo l'ingiustizia di cui é stato vittima, addossando peró ogni responsabilitá dei fatti accaduti a Compagnoni, capo designato per la conquista da parte di Desio.
		Eppure molte volte Achille e Lino si sono presentati insieme a interviste e trasmissioni televisive senza mostrare alcun dissidio tra loro...
	www.alpinia.net /libri/recensioni/nar_073lacedelli.htm (470 words)

	THE CLIMBING HISTORY OF K2 - WALTER BONATTI
		They called out to Lacedelli and Compagnoni since they could not find the camp, but the latter did not direct them to the camp, neither did they come down to help, instead they shouted from their tent, urging the two carriers to leave the oxygen bottles and return to camp 8.
		After returning to Italy, the expedition in general and Lacedelli and Compagnoni in particular, were looked upon as heroes, but for some reason Bonattis effort to bring up the oxygen bottles and his remarkable bivouac were barely mentioned at all.
		Furthermore, he was accused of having used the oxygen designated for Lacedelli and Campagnoli during his bivouac; this would be the reason why the summiteers had run out of oxygen before reaching the summit.
	www.jerberyd.com /climbing/stories/k2_bonatti/index.htm (1026 words)

	OutThere Monthly (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-09)
		Late in the afternoon on July 31, 1954, Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli reached the summit of K2.
		In K2, Lacedelli and Cenacchi attempt to clear up discrepancies between the official record of the climb written by expedition leader Ardito Desio and the recollections of climbing members of the expedition.
		Lacedelli reveals that co-summiter Achille Compagnoni intentionally moved the location of the final high camp to thwart Walter Bonnati's chances for the summit.
	www.outtheremonthly.com /index.php?art=archives/oct06/book_reviews (901 words)

	Lino Lacedelli alpinismo conquista K2
		La passione per la montagna diventa sempre più grande per Lino Lacedelli, fino a quando nel 1954 Ardito Desio lo ingaggia per la spedizione che sicuramente avrebbe segnato la sua vita, nonchè la storia dell'alpinismo italiano: la conquista del K2 (8611m).
		Il 31 luglio del 1954 Lino Lacedelli piantava insieme con il valtellinese Achille Compagnoni la bandiera italiana sulla seconda cima più alta del mondo, nelgruppo del Karakorum, dopo un'avventura durata mesi e dopo numerosi episodi, alcuni dei quali anche tragici, come la morte del compagno di spedizione Puchoz.
		Lino Lacedelli fa parte dello storico gruppo degli "Scoiattoli" di Cortina, forse uno dei più importanti gruppi di Guida Alpine del nostro paese.
	tuttofassa.stepdev.org /linolacedelli.htm (237 words)

	K2: THE PRICE OF CONQUEST
		According to the official version of the facts, written by Desio and confirmed by all the other members of the expedition, nothing untoward had happened during the climb; Bonatti's accusations were unfounded and the result of a misunderstanding.
		This is a story of courage and ambition, of glory and guilt, of more than fifty years of hiding the truth that became Lino Lacedelli's Price of Conquest.
		LINO LACEDELLI, born in 1925, is one of Italy's most famous climbers, in large part because of his participation in the first ascent of K2 in 1954.
	www.mountaineersbooks.org /productdetails.cfm?PC=667 (313 words)

	Pakistan Travel Web > Adventure Club > Adventure News > Lino Lacedelli - First Climber of K2 in Pakistan after 50 years
		The names like Edmond Hillary & Tensing Sherpa, Herman Buhl, Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli always fascinated me due to their great feats of achieving the honour to undertake the challenge of world tallest and famous peaks of Mount Everest, Nanga Parbat and K2.
		Lino Lacedelli at the age of 79 also came to Pakistan after 50 years, with a plan to trek to K2 base camp, probably to witness his great achievement.
		June 2004 when Lacedelli along with his daughter and other team members, visited ministry of tourism for a briefing session for trekking permit.
	www.travel.web.pk /adventureclub/news/news_07.asp (914 words)

	Comune di Bellusco - INTERVISTA A LINO LACEDELLI (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-09)
		Lino Lacedelli ricorda la felicità della conquista della vetta, le fatiche e i congelamenti, le grandi polemiche tra gli alpinisti che fecero l’impresa.
		Invece Lacedelli e Compagnoni, si accamparono a una quota di circa 8.050 metri, al di là alcune ripide e vetrate placche rocciose, che a quell’altezza e con il buio ormai sceso, è una distanza insuperabile.
		Incontro Lino Lacedelli a casa sua, a Cortina d’Ampezzo, il 21 dell’ultimo bellissimo settembre.
	www.comune.bellusco.mi.it /comunicazioni/lacedelli.htm (4999 words)

	National Geographic Adventure Mag.: 50th Anniversary of K2
		On that July morning, the Italian team's climbing leader, 40-year-old Achille Compagnoni, and his partner, 29-year-old Lino Lacedelli, had ascended the mountain to establish Camp IX, an advance post for the final K2 summit push.
		Though Walter Bonatti, at 24, was the youngest member of the expedition, he had already forged a sterling climbing reputation by pioneering some of the most daring routes in the Alps.
		The light came from a camp that lay several hundred feet to the left of the main route to the summit and that was camouflaged by protruding rocks.
	www.nationalgeographic.com /adventure/0409/excerpt6.html (1775 words)

	K2 Expedition Pakistan
		K2 is taken from the first letter of Karakorum, and the number indicates that it was the second peak in the range to be measured.
		K2 was firstly climbed on July,31 1954 by Italian climbers team lead by Ardito Desio and accompanying him were Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni.
		With respect to the commentary on the 1954 Italian expedition that was the first to summit K2, it has since been proven that Compagnoni and Lacedelli did indeed have oxygen until they reached the summit of K2.
	www.monterosa-nepal.com /8000m/k2.htm (761 words)

	Mountain Climbing - Printer-friendly - MSN Encarta
		In 1953 New Zealand climber Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay made the first ascent of the world’s highest mountain, the Himalayan peak Mount Everest (8,850 m/29,035 ft).
		A year later Italian mountaineers Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli ascended the world’s second highest mountain, K2 (8,611 m/28,251 ft), which is also in the Himalayas.
		As more of the world’s mountains were climbed for the first time, mountaineers sought to challenge themselves by using more difficult routes and by climbing with less assistance from climbing partners.
	encarta.msn.com /text_761568485___6/Mountain_Climbing.html (385 words)

	BBC NEWS \| South Asia \| Recalling epic K2 first ascent
		Fifty years ago on 31 July, two Italian climbers, Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni, braved wind, rain and storm to climb the second highest - and arguably most dangerous - mountain in the world.
		In the event, Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni decided to go on and make history, while two others opted for the safer alternative.
		The difficulties of breathing at such a high altitude and the fact that the weather was closing in made it a tough struggle for the exhausted pair.
	news.bbc.co.uk /2/low/south_asia/3937137.stm (624 words)

	The Seattle Times: Nation & World: Pakistan marks 50th anniversary of conquest of K2
		And yesterday, an Italian reached the top, marking the 50th anniversary of the first successful climb, done by his grandfather.
		Italians Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni scaled K2, at 28,250 feet the world's second-highest mountain, on July 31, 1954.
		Lacedelli, now 78, trekked back to K2 base camp for a ceremony and banquet this month and has since returned to Italy.
	seattletimes.nwsource.com /html/nationworld/2001989189_mount27.html (370 words)

	Pakistan Travel Web > Adventure Club > Adventure News > K2 ( 1954 — 2004 ) - Happy Anniversary
		It was announced that the final ascent made by Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni was made without using supplemented Oxygen.
		The history of success on K2 is not finished as Lino Lacedelli was also there with his team including his family members as well.
		Lino must be proud of his nephew, Mario Lacedelli.
	www.travel.web.pk /adventureclub/news/news_11.asp (3500 words)

	Top of the World Books - Mountain and Polar Books
		In the 50 years since the Italian ascent of K2, Lino Lacedelli has never released a statement regarding the summit climb he made with Achille Compagnoni, an event which was celebrated in Italy with great pride.
		Lacedelli has never felt the necessity to correct the inaccuracies written about the expedition, nor has he replied to the accusations that have often been made.
		Now Lacedelli reveals previously unknown aspects of that extraordinary climb and offers his own view of the Bonatti affair, an affair which has accounted for many pages in books and newspapers over the last fifty years, as well as keeping the courts busy.
	www.topworldbooks.com (5197 words)

	Weltweite News - Mario Lacedelli besteigt 50 Jahre nach seinem Onkel Lino den K2 (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-09)
		Das Besondere: 1954 ; vor genau 50 Jahren bestieg Lino Lacedelli, Marios Onkel, zusammen mit Achille Compagnoni erstmals den zweithöchsten und nach Ansicht vieler schwierigsten Berg der Welt!
		Lino, sein Seilpartner Achille Compagnoni und die Cortina d'Ampezzo Scoiattoli bestiegen vor exakt 50 Jahren als Erste den K2!
		Auch Lino Lacedelli ließ es sich nach 50 Jahren nicht nehmen, noch einmal K2-Luft zu schnuppern: "Ich musste einfach vor Ort sein und bis zum Base Camp am Fuß des K2 aufsteigen.
	www.sportclimbing.de /detail.php?689 (349 words)

	The Ocean - Ocean news and guide
		After several failed attempts, K2 was finally summited in 1954 by the Italians, Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni.
		So, on Lino's instruction, they left the oxygen where they were and began their descent.
		So there you have it, from the mad Aleister Crowley in 1902, to Lino and Achille in 1954, their grandson and nephew in 2004, a suicide attack on the Prime minister only yesterday and a Magic Line yet to be surfed, the drama of the Mountaineers Mountain's continues to mesmerize the world of mountaineering.
	www.theoceans.net /story/stories/50yearsofsummitsonaMountainnamedK2Jul312004.shtml (2892 words)

	Himalayan Travel Trade Journal:Anniversary
		It was on July 31, 1954 that two Italians - Achille Compagnoni and Lino Laccedelli - had first scaled the 8,611-m peak on the Pakistani-Chinese border in the Karakoram Range.
		After a number of failed attempts by mainly Americans and Italians, it was in 1954 that an Italian expedition, under the leadership of Professor Ardito Desio, got to the summit.
		Two Italians of this expedition - Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli - became the first to scale the summit from where they witnessed a “dream-like world”.
	www.httj.com.np /august/anniversary.htm (1222 words)

	Conservation measures urged for Karakorams -DAWN - National; 29 July, 2004
		At a time, the minister said, when the tourism industry was confronted with crisis in the wake of September 11, it was the adventure seekers who kept the fragile tourism alive in Pakistan.
		Twinning of Skardu with Cortina d' Ampezzo which is the birth place of Lino Lacedelli, construction of a museum at Skardu, issuance of K-2 golden jubilee postage stamps and Pakistan-Italy polo match would also be held on the eve of its first ascent.
		The IUCN country representative, Abdul Latif Rao, outlined the efforts to conserve the Northern Areas' habitat with the participation of local populace and Italian partners.
	www.dawn.com /2004/07/29/nat14.htm (629 words)

	Northern Areas Development Gateway (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-09)
		SKARDU: A monument of the K-2 is going to be constructed at the heart of Skardu city to commemorate the first scaling of the world’s second highest peak some 50 years back by an Italian mountaineer, Lino Lacedelli.
		He said that the ground breaking ceremony of the monument would be carried out by Lino Lacedelli after he turned up on July 15 from base camp of the K-2.
		He said that his daughter Alberta Lacedelli would visit the Federal Government Degree College Skardu for girls on special invitations of the lady member of the Northern Areas Legislative Council, Fareeda Batool.
	www.northernareas.org.pk /ndetail.cfm?ID=326 (233 words)

	Amazon.fr : K2: The Price of Conquest: Livres en anglais: Lino Lacedelli,Giovanni Cenacchi,Mark Worthington (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-09)
		Editeur : découvrez comment les clients peuvent effectuer des recherches sur le contenu de ce livre.
		de Lino Lacedelli, Giovanni Cenacchi, Mark Worthington (Traduction)
		GIOVANNI CENACCHI, born in 1964, is the author of several books, documentaries and magazine articles on climbing.
	www.amazon.fr /K2-Price-Conquest-Lino-Lacedelli/dp/1594850305 (350 words)

	Chessler Books :: PRICE OF CONQUEST: CONFESSIONS FROM THE FIRST ASCENT OF K2. Lino Lacedelli HARDCOVER!!
		On July 31, 1954, two Italians, Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli, became the first humans to summit K2.
		But the official version of the climb, written by leader Desio and confirmed by all other members of the expedition, said that hadn't happened, that Bonatti's accusations were unfounded, the result of a misunderstanding.
		Today, more than 50 years after the event, summiter Lino Lacedelli tells his own terrible version of the truth: in the night before the summit attempt, he and Compagnoni deliberately failed to make their rendezvous with Bonatti, forcing him to abandon the final ascent so they could have the oxygen tanks he carried with him.
	www.chesslerbooks.com /eCart/viewItem.asp?idProduct=4295 (281 words)

	Lino Lacedelli - Wikipedia, la enciclopedia libre
		Lino Lacedelli, fue uno de los dos escaladores de la expedición italiana que alcanzó por primera vez la cumbre del K2 el 31 de julio de 1954.
		De 1947 a 1954 es cuando concentra su mayor nivel de actividad en la montaña con notables segundas, terceras o cuartas repeticiones de vías difíciles sobre todo en los Dolomitas.
		Mientras Desio deja fuera de la expedición al mejor alpinista italiano del momento Ricardo Cassin (a causa de unos supuestos problemas físicos) Lacedelli está entre los mejores, es el segundo integrante más joven de la expedición, cinco años más que Bonatti y once menos que Compagnoni.
	es.wikipedia.org /wiki/Lino_Lacedelli (197 words)

	LiberOnWeb - K2
		In questo libro-intervista di Giovanni Cenacchi, Lacedelli rende finalmente la sua testimonianza sui fatti del 1954.
		La notte del 30 luglio 1954 Walter Bonatti rischiò di morire a più di ottomila metri insieme al portatore hunza Mahdi per consegnare le bombole d'ossigeno che Lacedelli e Compagnoni avrebbero utilizzato il giorno successivo per raggiungere la cima.
		A queste domande Lino Lacedelli risponde con l'autorità di un testimone eccellente, gettando una nuova luce sull'intera vicenda, diventata un mito collettivo nell'Italia del dopoguerra.
	www.liberonweb.com /asp/libro.asp?ISBN=8804535563 (361 words)

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