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| | Marcus Schmuck | Obituaries | Guardian Unlimited |
 | | Schmuck was one of the first two men to reach the summit, but his moment of glory was overshadowed by the death of his team-member Hermann Buhl, then the most famous mountaineer in Europe. |
 | | Schmuck, on the other hand, remained an amateur, who was only interested in raising funds for trips he could not afford. |
 | | It was not in Schmuck's nature to imitate the large-scale expeditions of the 1950s, relying, as they did, on teams of porters carrying tons of supplies, not just to the bottom of the peak but to well-stocked camps on the mountain. |
| www.guardian.co.uk /obituaries/story/0,3604,1566853,00.html (929 words) |
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