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Topic: Nose Route

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	Nose on El Cap Beta
		The Nose route first went in a long day by the three-man team of John Long, Jim Bridwell, and Billy Westbay in 1975.
		To climb at an efficient level on the Nose requires the ability to cruise mid 5.11 cracks quickly and efficiently, and a good head for ropework and setting natural anchors.
		The A1 on the route that is best done with aid ladders consists of 4 sections, none longer than 60 feet, and total about 200 feet for the entire route.
	www.bigwalls.net /climb/Nose.html (1106 words)

	Lynn Hill - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
		Lynn Hill (born 1961) is a United States climber, known as a top sport climber of the 1980s and famous for making the first free ascent of the Nose Route on Yosemite's El Capitan.
		In 1994 she upped the ante, by becoming the first to free climb the entire route in a single 24 hour period.
		This has prompted some to suggest a grade of at least 5.14a may be more accurate, and cements the Free Nose ascents as two of the most impressive achievements in climbing history.
	en.wikipedia.org /wiki/Lynn_Hill (440 words)

	Climbing route - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
		Inevitably, there were climbers so energetic that they established multiple routes on a single mountain or cliff, and it became the practice that the first ascentionist chooses a name for the route.
		As an example, one of the most famous rock climbs in the world is "The Nose" on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley, so named because it is at the nose of the cliff, where it protrudes the furthest into the valley.
		For longer routes requiring multi-pitch climbing, the topo will indicate the recommended belay stations.
	en.wikipedia.org /wiki/Climbing_route (587 words)

	Nose-in-a-day beta by John Middendorf
		Training and Beta To climb at an efficient level on the Nose requires the ability to cruise mid 5.11 cracks quickly and efficiently, and a good head for ropework and setting natural anchors.
		Much of the climbing on the Nose is either free or "French-free", whereupon the golden rule of whatever's fastest and most energy efficient goes.
		The A1 on the route that is best done with aid ladders consists of 4 sections, none longer than 60 feet, and total about 200 feet for the entire route (see topo).
	www.terragalleria.com /mountain/info/yosemite/nose-in-a-day.html (1302 words)

	El Capitan - The Nose 5.13c or 5.9 C2 - Climbing Info - Yosemite Valley, California USA
		This doesn't change the overall difficulty of the route, and i didn't see anybody bailing from this point, but its just a heads up to expect pitch 4 to be a little more spicy than indicated on the supertopo.
		When I did the route in early June, the team (of 2) just ahead of us had a heavy bag and were using static haul lines (heavy) and were not able to haul it direct to Sickle.
		The Nose might be one of the worse climbs to practice aid on in all but bad weather.
	www.supertopo.com /rockclimbing/route.html?r=ybelnose (3925 words)

	Air entry in infant resuscitation: oral or nasal routes? -- Wilson-Davis et al. 82 (1): 152 -- Journal of Applied ...
		and the mouth and nose of her infant and thus obstruct the airway.
		mouth-to-nose route in infants because of obstruction to airflow.
		Nasal airway versus the oral route for infant resuscitation.
	jap.physiology.org /cgi/content/full/82/1/152 (2453 words)

	SummitPost.org - Smith: Monkey Face Climbing Information (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-20)
		The easiest route to the summit is Pioneer Route rated 5.7 A0 - it overcomes the crux overhung face portion by means of a bolt ladder.
		This route offers the quickest approach option to routes located on the south and west sides of Monkey and is (stiff!) 4th class going over the pass - the required downclimb down the west side of the pass can give pause to some people.
		The route is a variation of the Panic Point pitch that heads directly to the summit instead of the bolts on the Monkey's nose.
	www.bettercamper.com /show/mountain_link.pl/mountain_id/1695 (2218 words)

	FISH Topos: The Nose, El Capitan
		These are the escape routes from any point on the route.
		The Nose has been the scene of numerous disasters and near miss rescues.
		When I was on the Nose (a billion years ago) I remember seeing this older guy with a frame pack rapping from the summit via these anchors.
	www.fishproducts.com /topos/yostopos/nose.html (874 words)

	The Nose Route of El Capitan (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-20)
		The nose route on El Capitan in Yosemite is perhaps the most famous rock climb in the world.
		The route is rather hot in the summer, so Spring and Fall are the best times, with the crowding generally less and the days longest in the Spring, although long periods of stable weather can be found in the Fall.
		They had tried to do the Nose in a day, but retreated as the upper portions of the route were enshrouded in clouds and rain.
	www.alpinistas.org /archives/1998/nose/nose.html (7040 words)

	CNNSI.com - SI Adventure - The El Capitan Climbing War - Wednesday July 31, 2002 11:18 AM
		On the morning of Nov. 2, Potter, 30, and O'Neill, 33, eclipsed Florine's mark by a half hour, in view of their nemesis, who for five straight mornings had dropped off his infant daughter, Marianna, at a day-care center and raced over to Yosemite Meadow to see if his rivals were on El Cap.
		With each successive push up the Nose, big-wall climbing's bitterest rivals teeter closer to the edge of madness, gradually eliminating a pound of protective gear here, a bottle of water there, to cut down on weight and shave minutes off the most recent record.
		Or the first ascent of the Nose, in 1957 and '58: Warren Harding, a bon vivant from Northern California, spent 45 days over 18 months literally carving his route by drilling some 200 expansion bolts into the sheer granite face, infuriating environmentalists but fascinating just about everyone else.
	sportsillustrated.cnn.com /features/siadventure/17/el_capitan (2346 words)

	The Nose of El Capitan: beta
		The Nose of El Capitan, Yosemite, is one of the most long, beautiful, classic, and sought after, rock climb in the world.
		Other than this, the crux aid of the route is the "glowering spot", where you climb a steep and thin crack on small nuts, RP's, and TCU/Aliens.
		The only part of the route which as to be freed is the Texas Flake at 5.8, but the route would be more enjoyable if you can crack climb at 5.10.
	www.terragalleria.com /mountain/info/yosemite/nose-beta.html (1727 words)

	Ace climber Lynn Hill tells her tale of a life on the rocks (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-20)
		It was Sept. 20, 1994, on the famed "Nose" route.
		The Nose was the hardest thing I've ever done and the hardest thing I ever hope to do," she said.
		Besides her free climb of the Nose, the low-key Hill, is most proud of staying true to herself.
	seattlepi.nwsource.com /lifestyle/70907_lynnhill20.shtml (1640 words)

	El Capitan's Nose Climbed Free, by Lynn Hill
		Free climbing this historical route had great meaning for me and I was prepared to commit myself entirely to realize the dream.
		Certainly this, the numerous piton scars on other sections, and the fact that there are chipped holds on the Jardine Traverse detract from the purity of the route as a "free climb." But these elements were all part of what marked the history of human passage and our evolving definition of success.
		After having evolved along with the development of free climbing through the era of sport climbing and after having spent the better part of the previous eight years competing in various international climbing competitions throughout the world, this journey represented a refreshing return to my origins and spirit as a rock climber.
	www.stanford.edu /~clint/yos/nosehill.htm (2570 words)

	Climbing The Nose on El Capitan
		While this is probably the easiest route up El Cap it still is 3000 feet and 34 pitches of climbing.
		While The Nose has been climbed in an incredible 4 hours and 22 minutes, and was recently free-climbed by Lynn Hill in less than 24 hours, we had no intentions of trying to set any records.
		These guys were on a different route and had run out of food after 5 days.
	www.cs.uoregon.edu /~thornley/nose (1226 words)

	[No title]
		He had free climbed routes that the best climbers of the day said couldn't be done free.
		Billy drew the middle part of the route which was mostly mixed aid and free climbing.
		Due to the popularity of the Nose route, we had anticipated many obstacles on a one-day ascent: passing other parties on the climb.
	www.stanford.edu /~clint/yos/nosebrid.htm (2442 words)

	Free climbing on the Nose of El Capitan, Ray Jardine and Daniel Bolster for IWA TO YUKI, June 1981
		The present article special to ITY by Jardine and his steady partner D. Bolster is their diary on a day in their attempt on the Nose route in the spring of 1980.
		The route is possible to develop bit by bit in a day and to descend by the fixed ropes.
		The next unfreed pitch was actually a part of a nearby route, the Grape Race, and for us an escape around the Boot Flake Bolt Ladder on the actual Nose route.
	www.rayjardine.com /magazines/1981-iwa/iwato.shtml (2948 words)

	Friends of Yosemite Search and Rescue - Rescues (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-20)
		YOSAR was aware that there were climbers on the face and the Valley District SAR Coordinators began monitoring the climbers' situation from the onset of the storm.
		After a conversation with the Valley Shift Supervisor regarding the welfare of the Japanese team, SAR Technician Greg Loniewski was assigned to hike to the base of the Nose to yell and see if he could elicit a response from the Japanse team.
		We were alerted via the family band radio to a solo climber on the Tempest Route who was now in trouble and requested a rescue.
	www.friendsofyosar.org /rescues/missions/10-19-04_Nose.html (1178 words)

	Camp4: The Return of the King (The Nose Record Broken Again!) (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-20)
		The Nose is the most sought after big wall climb in the world.
		This team was 11 pitches up the route when Hans and Jim left the ground and 45 minutes later they passed the NIAD team after they had climbed two pitches - a fast rate of 22 minutes/pitch.
		Since Jim is newly engaged I suggested he go for a speed run up the Nose with me and be done with El Cap by noon and down to spend time with his fiancee' and daughter...
	www.camp4.com /news/index.php?newsid=135 (1446 words)

	Rock Climbing, Mountain Climbing, Ice Climbing, Bouldering — The Access Fund
		In 1979, she was the first woman to climb a route of the grade 5.12d.
		She continued to climb routes at the highest standards of difficulty over the years.
		In 1992, she was the first woman to climb a route graded 5.13b, "on-sight" (successful on first attempt with no prior knowledge of the route).
	www.accessfund.org /about/ambassador.php?id=lynnhill (237 words)

	News Release - Yosemite National Park
		They observed two climbers from Japan on "The Nose" who were without a portaledge and were not moving.
		They were able to fly very close to the two Japanese climbers on "The Nose," a difficult but popular route that stretches from the Yosemite Valley floor to the summit of El Capitan.
		The first climbing team of two, Tom Thompson and Eric Erikson, both Californians, was climbing on the route named "Never Never Land." They were safely taken to the summit and then transported by helicopter to El Capitan Meadow on Thursday.
	www.nps.gov /yose/news/2004/sard1023.htm (506 words)

	Salathe
		The Salathé is the longest route on El Cap (Free Rider, which takes a variation of the Salathé to avoid the overhanging headwall near the top, is equally as long.
		I'd climbed the Nose with the Loobster, but he didn't feel he'd be in shape for the Salathé and declined an invitation to join us.
		The Hollow Flake is the mandatory free climbing crux of the route.
	www.wwwright.com /climbing/tripreports/1999/Salathe.htm (11843 words)

	APStracts 3:0417A, 1996. (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-20)
		Air entry into the trachea occurred at lower pressures (p&LT0.05) via the nose route in the neutral and extended neck positions compared to the flexed position.
		We were unable to demonstrate an effect of the route of air entry on esophageal air entry.
		The findings indicate that the nasal route of air entry is more effective than the combined nose and mouth or mouth routes and that neck flexion impedes air entry.
	www.uth.tmc.edu /apstracts/1996/jap/September/417a.html (213 words)

	2004 Golden Piton Awards - Speed Climbing (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-20)
		The freeable Nose route is much longer than the steep nailups, but the traditional speed climbing strategy for aid lines — short fixing and mad aid dashes up ladders — is hampered by the simple mechanics of getting in and out of etriers hundreds of times.
		By their fourth speed trial, the pair already held the overall record, but realized they could do the route in sub-two hours.
		On their final bid, on June 17, they split the route into two looong simul-climbing pitches, free climbing at top speed with huge runouts on 5.11 and 5.12 rock.
	www.climbing.com /current/speed04 (459 words)

	A Lunchless Nose, 5/00 (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-20)
		AND, he later confessed that the Nose is a much better route than the Salathe, even though he has spent most of the last four years of his life on the latter.
		Halfway up the route Jim realized that his lunch was nowhere to be found in our pack.
		The 3 parties we passed on route also seemed more inclined to nervously let us pass when we started showing them the lizard.
	www.ai.sri.com /~herson/climbing/tr/nose-lunch.html (335 words)

	Record Speed Climb of the Nose
		After this route, he’d turn his attention to the second free ascent of the new Quantum Mechanic (5.13 crack route to the right of Astroman), Free Rider, and maybe try to free Half Dome as well (the Higbee Hedral variation).
		Hans told her about the new record on the Nose and said he “gave Dean some to shoot for.” Steph responded, “I don’t think Dean’s playing that game anymore.” I later ran into Dean while running out from Pine Line (no, I didn’t break Hans’ record).
		I dashed into the route from the paved road, the official start/finish line, only to find a group of four, with three at the base and the leader halfway up the pitch.
	www.wwwright.com /climbing/news/SpeedKing.htm (3574 words)

	Nose-in-a-Day Page: History and Records
		The Nose was first climbed by Warren Harding (and partners) in 45 days, finishing on November 12, 1958.
		The pair climbed the Nose in 9:35 (missing the female record, held by Hill), and climbed Half Dome in 6:02.
		The first, and most famous, of these is the 1986 John Bachar and Peter Croft climb of the Nose followed by the Reg Route on Half Dome in the same day.
	www.cs.colorado.edu /~jrblack/histrec.html (998 words)

	Yosemite Climbing Timeline (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-20)
		The face of El Capitan (the Nose route) is siege climbed for the first time over a period of 18 months by
		Nose is climbed for the first time in a single day by John Long, Jim Bridwell and Billy Westbay.
		In June/94, Hans Florine and Steve Schneider speed climb The Nose (6:29) and the Steck-Salathe route on Sentinel (3:50) with a total time of 14:00.
	www.terra-quest.com /highsights/bigwall/climbtim.html (556 words)

	Views From The Top - Forums - Lynn Hill: Exotic Rock (slide show in philly)
		She is responsible for no less than at least a half of dozen of the hardest lines in the Gunks, including such routes as Vandals (5.13a) and Running Man (5.13d).
		More impressive than her competition climbing record (which is massively impressive), is her attitude towards climbing and the natural world, and her willingness to always push herself, and push boundaries, on real rock, while maintaining an attitude to push the style of her ascents to the highest level of purity possible.
		Indeed, Lynn’s free ascent of the Nose in 1993, and her one day free ascent in 1994, remain unrepeated, by man or woman, and it has been suggested by some that the two cruxes of the route may well clock in at 5.14.
	www.viewsfromthetop.com /forums/showthread.php?t=1570 (1026 words)

	thenose (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-20)
		First female solo ascent of the Nose, 2002 by Jacqueline Florine.
		By the spring of 1970 there were twenty one known ascents of the Nose route.
		We were very concerned about being able to do it in a day, so we speed climbed the first bit and got to the top of the Boot at 8:15.
	www.speedclimb.com /yosemite/thenose.htm (947 words)

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