| |
| | Guardian Unlimited Travel | Restaurants | Sardo, London W1 |
 | | Well, to judge by Sardo's lunchtime trade, the magic of the light, bright interior, the sexy service, now female rather than male, and the lure of the pepper grinder still prove irresistible. |
 | | As you may know, I have devoted a good many of my field trips to trying to find restaurants that accurately serve up the food of various parts of Italy, food that is pure, virtuous and unmucked about with. |
 | | To be fair, the food at Sardo isn't the pantomime pastiche of old. |
| travel.guardian.co.uk /restaurants/story/0,13739,1002936,00.html (688 words) |
|