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Topic: Spring loaded camming device


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In the News (Wed 15 Feb 12)

  
  NationMaster - Encyclopedia: Spring loaded camming device   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-09)
Spring loaded camming devices (SLCDs), or commonly "cams", are advantageously used in the sport of rock free-climbing as a source of leader protection for cracks having substantially parallel sides.
Exemplary devices include a cam retractor configured and arranged to interface with and operate a cam's trigger, and a body having a forward member and a rear member, wherein the body may be reduced in length for transportation, and the body is disposable between the retractor and an actuator operable on the retractor.
Devices constructed according to principles of the invention may include a stick-clip element disposed at a distal device end and configured and arranged to hold a gate of a carabiner open for remote clipping to a bolt hanger.
www.nationmaster.com /encyclopedia/Spring-loaded-camming-device   (915 words)

  
 Final Introduction
Spring Loaded Camming Devices are a type of protection used by technical rock climbers to secure themselves to the rock face.
SLCDs, or “cams” as they are commonly referred to, are used in building anchors in the rock or placing protection on lead, as an alternative to passive chocks.
A devices strength is also important, such as it must be able to hold a climber’s with the accompanying forces created in the system during a fall.
www.uvm.edu /~mlooft/finalintro.html   (234 words)

  
  Actuator for camming devices - Patent 6810994
Spring loaded camming devices (SLCDs), or commonly "cams", are advantageously used in the sport of rock free-climbing as a source of leader protection for cracks having substantially parallel sides.
Exemplary devices include a cam retractor configured and arranged to interface with and operate a cam's trigger, and a body having a forward member and a rear member, wherein the body may be reduced in length for transportation, and the body is disposable between the retractor and an actuator operable on the retractor.
Devices constructed according to principles of the invention may include a stick-clip element disposed at a distal device end and configured and arranged to hold a gate of a carabiner open for remote clipping to a bolt hanger.
www.freepatentsonline.com /6810994.html   (4337 words)

  
 Spring loaded camming device - Biocrawler   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-09)
It consists of two, three, or four cams mounted on a common axle or two adjacent axles, so that pulling on the axle forces the cams to spread further apart.
The SLCD is used by pushing on the cam via a pull "trigger" (a small handle) so the cams move together, then inserting it into a crack or pocket in the rock and pulling on the "stem", a rod attached to the axle.
("Friend" is now widely used by climbers to refer to SLCDs in general, but properly speaking it refers to the brand now manufactured by Wild Country.) Other popular brands include Camalots, and Aliens.
www.biocrawler.com /encyclopedia/Spring_loaded_camming_device   (279 words)

  
 spring loaded camming device Resource Center - spring loaded camming device
At this point the climbing spring loaded camming device rope can be attached to a sling and carabiner at the end of the stem.
Vitaly Abalakov invention of the Abalakov Cam was the first application to climbing of the principle of a constant-angle curved surface, with a cam shape based on the mathematical logarithmic spiral.
Designed so that a load produces a rotational force, the logarithmic cam shape allowed for a single device to fit in a range of crack sizes without a change in the loading pattern, making it predictable and stable.
www.taxgloss.com /Tax-Genericized_Trademark_Q_-_S-/spring_loaded_camming_device.html   (386 words)

  
 Sportextreme.com - Climbing
For example, sticking a cam into a shallow crack so that its trigger sticks out parallel to the ground is a bad idea, because the cam will rotate until the stem is as close to being in-line with the force of the fall as possible.
Cams placed in clean, parallel-sided crack will move with the rope, any back-and-forth movement will move alternate cams, and the unit will walk in the direction of the stem, which may eventually put your cam out of reach or render it dysfunctional.
A cam crunched into a crack may be irretrievable, while a cam close to its expansion limit will have a little travel left to expand during a fall, or to adjust if it walks into a slightly wider place in the crack.
www.sportextreme.com /Se_Shop/HTC/Climbing/CammingDevices/CammingDevices.page.KategoriID.211_index.html   (1385 words)

  
 Climbing
The loop of rope is attached to a carabiner such that when one end of the rope is pulled, the belay device approaches the carabiner and pinches the rope.
SLCDs A spring-loaded camming device (SLCD) consists of a stem with an axle at one end holding four spiral-shaped spring-loaded cams.
When placing an SLCD, the climber pulls a mechanism to retract the cams places it in a crack with the stem pointing down, and relases the mechanism, allowing the cams to spring back against the rock.
www.troop125bsa.com /climbing1.htm   (2725 words)

  
 Spring loaded camming device - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Spring loaded camming device in a parallel crack
A spring loaded camming device (also SLCD, cam or friend) is a piece of rock climbing or mountaineering protection equipment.
Ray designed a spring loaded opposing multiple cam unit with a more stable 13.75 degree camming angle and an innovative triggering mechanism.
en.wikipedia.org /wiki/Spring_loaded_camming_device   (384 words)

  
 Elastic Model of SLCD Holding Power
Spring loaded camming devices (SLCDs) are a type of anchor that rock climbers use to connect themselves to cracks or other irregularies in a rock cliff.
These devices work through a combination of the wedge principle and friction: once the cams are placed in a crack, any force pulling the cams down causes the cams to press tightly against the crack walls, generating a frictional force that retards the downward pull.
To produce a camming device that works over a wide range of crack sizes, multiple rods are combined into a two dimensional surface in the shape of a cam.
web.mit.edu /custer/www/rocking/cams/cams.body.html   (2040 words)

  
 Cams - Spadout
Cams allow you to make placements in parallel cracks (parallel cracks are difficult to protect with passive protection).
Offset cams use a similar design to single axle cams but one of the sets of the lobes is smaller than the other.
Cams placed in flaring cracks are far more susceptible to pulling out than placements in parallel-sided cracks.
www.spadout.com /wiki/index.php/Spring_Loaded_Camming_Device   (410 words)

  
 Equipment
A spring-loaded camming device (SLCD) consists of a stem with an axle at one end holding four spiral-shaped spring-loaded cams.
When placing an SLCD, the climber pulls a mechanism to retract the cams places it in a crack with the stem pointing down, and relases the mechanism, allowing the cams to spring back against the rock.
When the SLCD is pulled downward (say, because of a fall), the spiral-shaped cams are forced harder against the rock, making it more secure.
alumnus.caltech.edu /~sedwards/climbing/equipment.html   (1502 words)

  
 Spring-loaded camming nut - Patent 6283426
Coil springs on the spindle bias the cams outward, and a pull-bar transverse to the stem and connected to the cams with cables is operable to retract the cams inward toward the central support.
Coil spring 68 is disposed coaxially upon the more proximal portion of doubled anchor cable 12, between the distal end of proximal cable clamp 22 and the proximal face of finger pull bar 40.
In this instance, the camming action is minimized, as is the distance of lateral travel of apex 62 into the crack's wall, while the wedging action is maximized by allowing wedge-shaped chock to slide distally between prism-shaped chock 50 and right wall 74.
www.freepatentsonline.com /6283426.html   (7655 words)

  
 Hints for big-wall climbing in Yosemite
camming device - a spring-loaded camming unit placed in varying sized crack to protect a climber in case of a fall
- piton, nut, camming device, etc.) placed in the rock to stop a climber in the case of a fall.
A model of camming device with three cams.
www.terragalleria.com /mountain/info/yosemite/big-walls-tips.html   (948 words)

  
 Spring Loaded Latch   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-09)
Spring loaded camming device - A spring loaded camming device (also SLCD, cam or friend) is a piece of rock climbing or mountaineering protection equipment.
Pistol slide - The slide is the part of a semi-automatic pistol that moves during the operating cycle and generally houses the firing pin or striker, extractor, and serves as the bolt face.
It is spring loaded so that once it has moved to its rearmost point in the firing cycle, spring tension brings it back to chamber a fresh cartridge.
manufacturer.globalcorrosiontech.com /springloadedlatch.html   (533 words)

  
 A glossary of mountaineering terms
Many belay devices may be used as descenders, including ATCs, eights, or even carabiners.
A belay device designed to be easy to use and safe for beginners because it is self-locking under load.
Abbreviation for spring loaded camming device, a type of protection device.
mccammon.ucsd.edu /~adcock/mountaineering_glossary.html   (1177 words)

  
 Self-locking device - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Self-locking devices are devices intended to arrest the fall of climbers who climb alone (known as back rope solo climbing for 'ground-up climbing' or 'top rope self belaying').
The next level of device development improved on the locking limitations of the prussik sling by utilizing a cam that is activated by the climber's body moving down to rotated the simple grab cam inside a rigid frame.
The method used to lock the drum against the device frame is by the use of two straight knurl edge discs that are thrown outwards by centrifugal force as they ride on parallel ramps milled into the drum's enclosed outer periphery.
en.wikipedia.org /wiki/Self-locking_device   (700 words)

  
 planetFear / Reviews / Technical Friends
When Ray Jardine was developing his original spring loaded camming device (SLCD’s) in the early 1970’s, the name ‘Friends’ was used by his climbing partners when querying whether he had this revolutionary protection device with him.
Cams are simply the most expensive, most important and most desired piece of kit on any climber’s rack.
Well, my first cam was a Wild Country Technical Friend 0.5, it was given as a prezzie 5 years ago, has caught me on a number of occasions and is still one of the first pieces of kit on my harness when racking up.
www.planetfear.com /review_detail.asp?r_id=820   (863 words)

  
 CAM can be a river in England river in England...
"CAM can be a river in England river in England or, when all capitals all capitals, an abbreviation abbreviation; this article is about the mechanical linkage which translates motion." Cam can also be an abbreviation for camera camera.
CAM is the acronym for Content addressable memory Content addressable memory.
A "cam" is a projecting part of a rotating wheel wheel or shaft that strikes a lever lever at one or more points on its circular path.
www.biodatabase.de /cam   (284 words)

  
 La Cordée. Spring-Loaded Camming Devices
Rigid-stem spring-loaded camming devices are usually more durable than those with flexible stems, but they cannot be used in irregular cracks.
Double axles increase the expansion range of the cams but add weight, which could be a problem on an extended climb requiring several placements.
The slings are often colour-coded for size, which is very useful when you want to choose the appropriate cam from a bag of hardware on a difficult climb.
www.lacordee.com /en/conseils/details/achat/?id=28   (594 words)

  
 Sports Dorks - Extreme Sports - Rock Climbing
The rope is attached to the cliff face with Spring Loaded Camming Devices (SLCD).
SLCDs (Spring Loaded Camming Device) - small, self-fastening clips, that can be pushed into cracks in the rock face and will hold the rope.
SLCDs are very easy and quick to place, but they must be placed correctly to ensure the safety of the climber.
gvc04.virtualclassroom.org /gvc04c24/extreme/rock_climbing.htm   (341 words)

  
 Needle Sports - Cams Story
With only two mobile cams and a simple loop of cable stiffened by a coiled spring, this new comer had the advantage of a flexible handle to adapt to all positions.
To the two springs guided by the legs of the U-shaped body of his prototype, the engineers Julio Varela and Honk Kyu Kwak found that the best cam action was achieved by individually loading the cams with torsion springs.
With two cams opposed to an adjusting crossbar, it was possible to increase the range of this device by three extensions made in two, three and four inch lengths and usable in any combination.
www.needlesports.com /nutsmuseum/camsstory.htm   (3881 words)

  
 Climbing - Getting started, how to start climbing
A figure-eight One common belay device is the figure-eight: two metal rings about an inch in diameter joined in the shape of an 8.
An ATC A disadvantage of the figure-eight is its tendency to twist the rope as it passes through.
An SLCD A spring-loaded camming device (SLCD) consists of a stem with an axle at one end holding four spiral-shaped spring-loaded cams.
climbing.yaia.com /equipment.html   (1478 words)

  
 thinkmountain.COM - Camp, Hike, Cycle, Climb, Paddle, Ski, Snowboard, Snowshoe, Running, Travel
All Clog cams use a 13.75 degree camming angle which gives the optimum expansion range and the highest pull out loads in low friction rocks and flared placements.  They have flexible stems covered by a Nylon tubular sheath which gives the long stem directional control.
Clog's lightweight and immensely strong single Nickel Chrome Molybdenum steel axles, ensure that the stem is free to rotate under load, which transfers the force of a fall to the cams in their plane of rotation.
Clog springs are rigorously selected and tested to resist cam 'bounce' and to help the cams seat on gritty or lichenous surfaces and to minimise 'walking'.
www.thinkmountain.com /english/store/item.asp?ITEM_ID=935   (255 words)

  
 Rock Climbing Camming Devices Shop @ ABC-of-Rock Climbing
Active Protection is a type of anchor or protection which has moving parts, spring-loaded features, and it expands to fit a crack.
A good example of this protection type is the Spring-Loaded Camming Device or SLCD.
Using Direct Axle Technology, Metolius removed every unneeded scrap of material from the Ultralight Power Cam to make it as lightweight as possible, w...
www.abc-of-rockclimbing.com /climbingcamming.asp   (449 words)

  
 Climbing Glossary
The person who manages the rope and is responsible for stopping the fall of a climber or rappeller.
A bight is important for tying certain knots used for belaying, and for securing ropes into rappel or belay devices.
A piece of hardware such as the figure-eight descending device that helps rappellers control the speed of a rappel.
www.dacbsa.org /climbing/glossary.htm   (1351 words)

  
 planetFear / Shop / Equipment / Protection / Camming Devices
In most parts of the world, the brand name 'Friend' has become synonymous with all camming devices, the original name stemming from a code word used by the inventor, American climbing pioneer Ray Jardine.
These are the benchmark camming devices and their 14 sizes cover the widest range on the planet.
The word friend in climbing originates from the British company Wild Country that was the first brand in the world to come up with the idea of a camming device and has been manufacturing these designs for years so you’d be sure that they’re of the highest quality.
www.planetfear.com /product_detail.asp?p_id=627   (1201 words)

  
 Design Communication II Projects
SLCD, Spring-Loaded Camming Device (Nathaniel Kemp, Murphy Barrett)
SLCDs are aid devices used in rock climbing and are placed in cracks with parallel sides.
A steering quickener is a device used for motorsports applications where tight radius turns and quick car control are important.
web.vtc.edu /MEC/1012/Spring_05/Projects.htm   (578 words)

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