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| | The Lost Strudel - New York Times |
 | | Cabbage strudel is on a long list of things I loved to eat that used to be here and then weren't, starting with frozen custard; this delectable treat vanished when I was 5 years old, when my family moved to California, and my life has been a series of little heartbreaks ever since. |
 | | Cabbage strudel looks like apple strudel, but it's not a dessert; it's more like a pirozhok, the meat-stuffed turnover that was a specialty of the Russian Tea Room, which also vanished. |
 | | It has a buttery, flaky, crispy strudel crust made of phyllo (the art of which I plan to master in my next life, when I will also read Proust past the first chapter), with a moist filling of sautéed cabbage that's simultaneously sweet, savory and completely unexpected, like all good things. |
| www.nytimes.com /2005/12/28/opinion/28ephron.html?ex=1293426000&en=ee9de0a5d9897f2c&ei=5088&partner=rssnyt&emc=rss (637 words) |
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