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Topic: Ocean Swell

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	SwellInfo.com Product Information
		At any given time, there may be multiple swells at any location, so the swell plots split the significant wave height you see on the wave maps into the multiple concurrent open ocean swells.
		In order to use the swell plots to interpret how the surf will be at your local beach, it is useful to have some local knowledge to understand what makes your local breaks turn on.
		Where the swell plots give you the open ocean concurrent swells, the surf plots give you an idea of what that means for wave face size at the beach.
	www.swellinfo.com /site_info.html (2200 words)

	The Rhythmic Movements Of The Ocean, Tides, Swell, And Waves
		THE manifestations of the life of the terrestrial globe, its general movements, the perturbations it is subjected to, the spasms of its crust, and the manifestation of electricity and magnetism which traverse it, as well as all that communicates this incessant restlessness to the Earth, have their origin in the Sun.
		When the wind begins to freshen and rise, the ridges of water which constitute the undulations of the swell lose their beautiful regularity; they cease to be symmetrical, becoming steep while their surfaces are covered with ripples and subsidiary wavelets.
		The most simple manifestation of undulatory movement at the surface of the sea is the swell characterised by the absence of that white foam which sailors call "white horses." It forms at the surface of the sea regular ridges, with regularly curved sides and which move majestically over the water when the atmosphere is calm.
	www.oldandsold.com /articles33n/earth-origins-9.shtml (5983 words)

	Sea Kayaking - The Guide to Sea Kayaking. Chapter 8: Open Ocean Kayaking (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-14)
		The wavelength is the distance between successive crests or troughs and the amplitude or height of the swell is the height difference between the crest and trough of an ocean swell.
		Kayaking in the same direction as the swell is moving keeps you in contact with the front and rear of the swell for longer, while paddling directly into the swells lets you pass through each section quicker.
		Riding ocean swells, especially if accompanied by moderate to strong winds, is one of the most exciting and potentially also the most tiring of the sea kayaking pastimes.
	www.kayak.co.za /book/ch8.shtml (3948 words)

	Rezachek & Associates' Energy & Environmental Resources - Renewable Energy - Wave Energy
		Ocean thermal energy conversion is limited to tropical regions, such as Hawaii, and to a portion of the Atlantic coast.
		Ocean Energy Ocean energy systems produce power from either the movement of waves and tides or the temperature differences that exist in the ocean.
		Swell Idea for Ocean Power A device which extracts energy from the swell in oceans has proven itself in a small 1:20-scale prototype.
	home.hawaii.rr.com /rezachek/wavenpg1.htm (1125 words)

	Chapter10Part1
		In the first part of the lesson on ocean waves, we will discuss the various ways in waves are classified, why wave phase speed is a function of either the length of the wave or the depth of the water, and how a chaotic sea is dispersed into swell.
		Actual ocean waves do not, of course, have a sinusoidal shape and rarely are found with a single wavelength or wave period.
		Therefore, the first swell to arrive at some distant point will be the longest, and as the storm gets closer, the wavelength and period of the arriving swell will decrease.
	www4.ncsu.edu /eos/users/c/ceknowle/public/chapter10/part1.html (1614 words)

	FAQ : HURRICANES, TYPHOONS, AND TROPICAL CYCLONES
		But the perceptive observer will note a swell on the ocean surface of about a meter (3 feet) in height with a wave coming ashore every ten seconds.
		The barometer is falling slightly, the wind is around 5 m/s (10 kts, 11 mph), and the ocean swell is about 4m (13 feet) in height and coming in 7 seconds apart.
		The ocean swell, coming in only 5 seconds apart, is beginning to be obscured by wind driven waves, and small whitecaps begin to appear on the ocean surface.
	www.aoml.noaa.gov /hrd/tcfaq/H5.html (1143 words)

	Abalone Diving, Water Dangers
		Swell is measured by its height and interval.
		This visualization clearly illustrates that the swell interval roughly correlates to the diameter of each column and that the height of the swell generally corresponds with the speed the column is rolling toward shore.
		The swells that reach the northern California coast are a composite of the swells generated from weather conditions from all over the Pacific Ocean.
	www.sonic.net /~rocky/abdangerswater.htm (2041 words)

	PBS - The Voyage of the Odyssey - Track the Voyage - INDIAN OCEAN
		The Indian ocean is strikingly different from the Atlantic and Pacific oceans in that it does not reach north into cold polar waters.
		However, it is known that this ocean has the longest, natural, straight-line feature on the planet (both on land or in the sea), the so-called "Ninety Degree Ridge." It is an undersea mountain range that runs nearly due North and South for over 2000 nautical miles.
		The Indian Ocean possesses a rich maritime history that stretches from ancient trade routes to modern whaling, and today it serves as the primary route by which the West obtains Persian Gulf oil.
	www.pbs.org /odyssey/odyssey/20020801_log_transcript.html (1189 words)

	Buoy Forecast FAQs (STORMSURF)
		Since many ocean enthusiasts have built an understanding of how real-time buoy readings correlate to near shore surf conditions, building forecasts for those buoys to predict future ocean and swell conditions is essential.
		Things that can reduce swell size include (but are not limited to) obstructions that prevent a swell from proceeding straight towards the beach, like islands, points or anything that causes the swell to wrap or change direction.
		Primary and Secondary Swell Height and Period: This is the forecast height and period of the Primary and Secondary Swells.
	www.stormsurf.com /4cast/mht/faqs.html (1496 words)

	Ocean Swell Lab Exercise Introduction (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-14)
		Ocean swells are generated by storms blowing at sea, far from California.
		A swell arriving in California may encounter another swell, generated by a different storm, arriving from a different direction,with a different period and wavelength.
		However, by measuring the direction, period and height of a swell or swells on offshore buoys or platforms, and by using information about the shape of the seafloor, scientists can predict wave height in Southern and Central California.
	www.miracosta.cc.ca.us /Home/CMetzler/WaveEx2.htm (311 words)

	swell - Search Results - MSN Encarta
		puff up, puff out, swell up, bulge, bloat, distend, engorge, inflate, balloon, increase, grow, enlarge, inflate, expand, mushroom, proliferate, add...
		Swell Organ, second manual (keyboard) of an organ, characterized by a mechanism that can vary the volume of sound given by any combination of stops...
		Ocean Swell, racehorse, winner of the Epsom Derby in 1944.
	uk.encarta.msn.com /swell.html (176 words)

	The Nature of Surf ... Mountain Man Graphics, Australia
		Swell waves travelling from a remote source on the deep ocean do not interact with the cork other than to move it about in near perfect circles.
		You could then say that swell waves are the agent used by nature to distribute and transfer energy away from the areas of prevailing high wind.
		As the depth of water deceases approaching the coast - the EARTH of the sea-bed, the circular transmission of this energy on the surface of the ocean is impeded by the approach (from the depths) of the ocean bed.
	www.mountainman.com.au /surf0.html (1193 words)

	:: TRAINING :: (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-14)
		Ground swell, the ocean waveform that is generated a long distance away by a low pressure system, is responsible for the even waves that break on the beaches and reefs, but in deeper water these swells are often too flat to be surfed easily.
		This also means that in conditions where the wind and ground swell are from the same direction, you'll find the most exhilarating paddling as the wind steepens the faces of the ground swells.
		In small conditions these swells may not even be visible - you just have to feel for the hull of your ski lifting and increase your effort for a few strokes sufficient to let the ski run with the reflected swell for a short distance.
	www.surfski.co.nz /Tips.htm (4085 words)

	Sea Swell Definition - Division of Nearshore Research
		Swell waves are uniform in appearance, have been sorted by period, and have a longer wave length and longer period than sea waves.
		Surfers are often interested in obtaining the ocean swell height and period.
		Sea and Swell waves may both be observed at the same observation station as sea waves are produced by locally occuring winds and swell waves arrive from offshore origins.
	lighthouse.tamucc.edu /Waves/SeaSwellDefinition (356 words)

	Wind waves and swell (from ocean) -- Encyclopædia Britannica
		The undulations and oscillations may be chaotic and random, or they may be regular, with an identifiable wavelength between adjacent crests and with a definite frequency of oscillation.
		county, east-central New Jersey, U.S., bounded by the Metedeconk River to the north, the Manasquan River to the northeast, and the Atlantic Ocean to the east.
		Its major subdivisions are the Pacific, the Atlantic, the Indian, and the Arctic oceans.
	www.britannica.com /eb/article?tocId=67103 (877 words)

	Great-esCape (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-14)
		The swell refracts around the outer area of Elands Bay and peaks at the point, producing a hollow take-off and cylindrical wall that runs for about 130 metres.
		Barrelling inside section when tide is high and the swell is a clean groundswell in the six to eight foot region, coming from the southeast or east.
		Best early before the onshore winds when a moderate swell is running, particularly from the east, especially the right which begins to work in south-westerly swells and is good at mid to low tide on winter offshore mornings.
	www.great-escape.ws /surfing.htm (3769 words)

	October 2002, Newsletter - Epic Kayaks - Sea kayaks and kayak paddles designed by world champions for the everyday ... (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-14)
		A fantastic by-product of learning to paddle well in ocean swells is that you will discover one of the most exhilarating aspects of kayaking: The rush of racing down the 40-foot face of a wave, doing close to 30 mph in a surf ski or sea kayak.
		Most ocean swells come in sets of 3-5 swells and these are groups of swells that are bigger and faster than the rest of the swells.
		Catch a swell and then make sure you go at up to 45 degrees to catch the next wave, and once we are on the swell then we turn and go diagonally in the right direction at speed.
	www.epicpaddles.com /newsletter/archives/october.htm (2185 words)

	Tides
		It is actually the gravitational attraction of the sun and moon that cause waters of the ocean to swell and recede at different parts of the earth.
		This is what keeps the moon in orbit around the earth, and it is also what causes tides to occur in the ocean.
		During these months the "bulges" in the ocean are offset the most from the equator, and it is most likely to encounter only one tide cycle per day, or diurnal tides.
	oceanlink.island.net /oinfo/tides/tides.html (809 words)

	Textbook
		The size of the swell is dependent upon the length of fetch and the duration and intensity of the wind.
		With adequate research to correlate ocean swell with observed lows, the major step of forecasting the generation of swells and their duration is possible.
		This is based on the notion that swells of the magnitude and frequency are generated similar to ones observed beforehand when a similar synoptic situation was present.
	members.optusnet.com.au /the.colonel/textbook.htm (1180 words)

	Swell Charts
		Swell Charts show the interaction of the coastline and the ocean in a visual format.
		Geographic Information Systems (GIS) have enabled graphic data integration (such as ocean bathymetry (seafloor topography) and CDIP buoy locations) to be displayed in a manner similar to boating-navigational charts.
		A graphic depiction of shoreface orientation and ocean bathymetry helps to predict how an ocean swell miles away from the coast will interact at your local breaks.
	www.swellcharts.com /index.html (211 words)

	wavescape: SMS swell alerts
		On Day 1, the general swell (average swell height) just off the coast is from the SW at 8ft with a period of 9 secs (intervals between swells).
		Proper groundswell is generally regarded as swell with a period of 10 seconds or more.
		Period is the average seconds it takes for the most dominant swell to pass a fixed point, not including other smaller swells around at the time.
	www.wavescape.co.za /top_bar/weather/SMS_cellc.htm (699 words)

	Abalone Diving, Water Dangers
		Swell is measured by its height and interval.
		This visualization clearly illustrates that the swell interval roughly correlates to the diameter of each column and that the height of the swell generally corresponds with the speed the column is rolling toward shore.
		The swells that reach the northern California coast are a composite of the swells generated from weather conditions from all over the Pacific Ocean.
	www.zapcom.net /~rocky/abdangerswater.htm (2034 words)

	Ocean Waves (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-14)
		The initial storm is modelled as a circular region of incoherent random fluctuations.
		The disturbance is then evolved according to the dispersion relation for small amplitude waves in a deep ocean.
		The model is somewhat unrealistic in that the waves are freely propagating after the initial disturbance, but captures the essential features that the long wavelength components outrun the high frequency modes, resulting, at late times, in a locally quasi-monochromatic wave with a characteristic patters of relatively slowly modulated wave-trains or 'sets'.
	www.ifa.hawaii.edu /~kaiser/pictures/oceanwaves/animate.html (163 words)

	Waves and Surf Forecasting
		Assuming a swell period of 23 seconds (massive swells such as this generally, after decay, have periods of 20-25 seconds), we need to calculate the amount of time necessary for the swell to reach Oahu.
		Thus, if the swell leaves the storm with a height of 10 ft, after one day of travel the height is then 7ft.
		The longer the swell period, the more the waves will be affected by the ocean floor bathymetry.
	www.soest.hawaii.edu /oceanography/courses_html/OCN201/laboratory/waves.html (1122 words)

	Waves and Wind (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-14)
		In the center of the storm the ocean surface is choppy and chaotic.
		Most ocean swell is generated in the far northern and southern oceans where conditions favor the development of cyclonic storms that are more intense in winter.
		In the summer the south swell is generated by storms in the antarctic where it is winter.
	www.hcc.hawaii.edu:8000 /~rickb/SciColumns/WaveWind.02Jul95.html (387 words)

	Dirk H.R. Spennemann, Typhoons in the Marshall Islands (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-14)
		Stretches of the ocean shore of the atoll are so exposed to wind driven salt spray, generated in the breaker zone of the reef, that they are all but uninhabitable.
		Wind and ocean swell conditions vary on an atoll, with those islands on the windward side being smaller and comprised of coarser soil, ranging from coarse sand to rubble.
		An analysis of the historic record of typhoons in the Marshall Islands hasidentified a significant association between the occurrence of ENSO and the occurrence of typhoons in the Marshall Islands (Spennemann and Marschner 1994, in press).
	marshall.csu.edu.au /html/typhoon/typhoon.html (7317 words)

	OSS "Herringbone Sea", Tropical Pacific (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-14)
		Sets of ocean swell are natural on the sea's surface; they originate either from moving storms over the ocean or from storms that send waves into the trade wind regions.
		Although crossing swell, and therefore herringbone seas, occur in nearly every part of the ocean, there is no better place to observe them than in the tropical Pacific Ocean, where sets of swell come from Northern and Southern Hemisphere storms.
		When the Challenger approached the equator on the first day of November 1985, it was a dominant swell from the northwest and a secondary swell from the southeast that appeared in the sun's reflection.
	geoinfo.amu.edu.pl /wpk/ocean/oss_76.html (209 words)

	Pacific Storm & Surf Forecast (Stormsurf)
		But this is about the end of it with the swell expected to slowly decline to near flat over the coming days.
		Conversely that swell is just starting to hit California, so a bit more energy is expected to be building there, but not getting more than about chest high at the best spots.
		They were getting some traction on the oceans surface with seas modeled at 29 ft, but that is to last only 12 hours.
	www.stormsurf.com /page2/forecast/forecast/current.shtml (2222 words)

	Economies of Scale Could Swell Ocean Energy
		Just days after the UK government announced a major new funding campaign to promote ocean and tidal energy technologies in their country, a new, inter-governmental report has been released in the U.S. suggesting that the technologies could be economically feasibly off U.S. shores in the very near future.
		First, with proper siting conversion of ocean wave energy to electricity is believed to be one of the most environmentally benign ways to generate electricity.
		Ocean energy in general has the advantage of access to the 50% of people within 50 miles of the Ocean and rather low real estate costs.
	renewableenergyaccess.com /rea/news/story?id=21969 (1234 words)

	Wavescape: Cape Peninsula,surf spots,surfing,south africa,surf pics,travel,surfing,surf trips
		Because it faces north, and prevailing swell direction is south, an ocean swell of 10'+ is needed before this spot begins to break, unless the swell is westerly or northwesterly, which is fairly rare.
		However, when a very clean West swell is running, it can be surfed in any tide, and can cook on the low tide, when the inside reef becomes a top-to-bottom tube.
		Expect the swell to be at least one to two foot bigger, and slightly hollower.
	www.wavescape.co.za /top_bar/spots/capetown.html (3654 words)

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