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Topic: Victorian dress reform

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	The Spectacular Female Body: Dress, Fashion and Modernity in Victorian Women's Magazines
		The reformers placed this exploitation at the centre of their critique of the fashion system, and even many fashion and general commercial magazines lamented the excessive use of ostrich feathers.
		The majority of the mainstream press remained hostile to rational dress as a serious alternative to contemporary fashion, and the reformers were often lampooned for allegedly wishing to dress like men.
		To imitate is to admit superiority and by dressing like a man, and trying to speak like a man, and generally aping manly ways, the manly young lady shows in the most sincere of possible ways that she thinks herself inferior to the being she apes.
	www.fathom.com /course/21701733/session3.html (1537 words)

	Artistic Dress movement - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
		Dresses were loosely fitted and comparatively plain, often with long puffed sleeves; they were made from fabric in muted colors derived from natural dyes, and could be ornamented with embroidery in the art needlework style.
		Artistic dress was an extreme contrast to the tight corsets, hoop skirts and bustles, bright synthetic aniline dyes, and lavish ornamentation seen in the mainstream fashion of the period.
		Aesthetic dress encompasses a range of modes, from the Japonnaise gowns and Kate Greenaway-inspired children's smocks of Liberty and Co. to the velvet jackets and knee breeches of Oscar Wilde's "aesthetic lecturing costume" for his speaking tour of America in 1882.
	en.wikipedia.org /wiki/Artistic_Dress_movement (458 words)

	Feminist Dress Reform
		During the mid 1800's all the way to the mid 1900's, feminists have been trying to reform women’s dress so that it is less confining and restricting.
		Afterwards, she often went about fully dressed as a male and was proud of her numerous arrests for such “cross-dressing”.
		She was not the originator of the fashion, but rather the “propagandist” of it, as she advocated the wearing of it in her paper, the Lily, of which she was both the editor and publisher.
	members.tripod.com /Jes24601/id74.htm (501 words)

	Historic Dress: Romantic (1815-1840)
		Dress reform was associated with concern for protecting the health and welfare of women, which included the women's suffrage movement and the temperance movement.
		The chief feature of this period was the rear emphasis in dress, typified by the bustle, a padded arrangement of drapery that accentuated the buttocks.
		These soft dresses, particularly those worn near the end of the period, were also reminiscent of the "classical" styles of the revolutionary period a century earlier.
	char.txa.cornell.edu /art/dress/historic/romantic/romantic.htm (1299 words)

	Queen Victoria and Fashion
		Dresses for shopping needed to be practical, made of a material that would stand up to being crushed in a crowded store, and without loose sleeves that would snag on baskets or carts.
		If a widow chose to follow mourning tradition, she wouldn’t lighten her dress at all until 12 months had passed, but more often than not touches of white lace, then lavender, and then gradually other colors, were added to a widow’s dress after only a month or two.
		Yet even the Victorians, with their faithfully followed etiquette of dress, were not so strict that they couldn’t see the benefit of not being entirely wrapped up in appropriate attire.
	www.vintageconnection.net /DressEtiquette.htm (1329 words)

	Julie Gale: Victorian Fashions (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-21)
		A woman born in 1858 might have worn a crinoline as a little girl, a bustle as a young woman, huge balloon sleeves as a married woman, and by the time she was 40, the graceful pouchy front blouses of the early 1900’s.
		The most elaborate of dresses were required for balls, and during the social season dressmakers were often kept busy late into the night making sure their clients ballgowns were finished on time.
		The Victorian Era was a time of great beauty and elegance in woman’s dress but also a time of great constriction for a woman not only in her waist but also in her life.
	home.comcast.net /~JulieGale/AboutVictorianFashions.html (351 words)

	Victorian London In Depth
		Fashions changed as the Victorian world changed: in the economic revival after the 1840s, which had been a period of great hardship, women's dresses began to be made from lighter, brighter fabrics, waitlines rose, skirts became fuller and leg-o'-mutton sleeves, which had been tight at the wrist, began to fill again.
		A full-skirted dress derived from 18th century patterns, in a richly-coloured fabric, would be decorated with machine-made embroidery and lace.
		The essential character of men's dress was in most respects little different from the formal dress of the 20th century.
	www.fortunecity.com /meltingpot/samoa/6/id24.htm (2690 words)

	The Debate Over Women's Clothing:
		Defenders and opponents of lady-like dress artfully argued from the moral and health standpoints: the former group claimed that lady-like dress symbolized discipline, respectability, thrift, self-control and beauty; the latter group argued that lady-like dress was degrading and endangered the health of ladies.
		Dress reformers, however, argued among themselves over the designs of "rational" dress: some suggested that pressure should be shifted from the waist (discarding crinolines, corsets and bustles) to the shoulders (tunics which hung from the shoulders).
		William Morris's call "to reform a philistine age by means of the decorative arts" failed to convince Victorians; <25> if anything, it had the reverse effect of confirming the superiority of lady-like dress.
	www.loyno.edu /~history/journal/1989-0/rodrigues.htm (3749 words)

	Victorian Fashions
		Movements like the Rational Dress Reform Society and the Aesthetic Dress Movement highlight positive and negative reactions to industrial and technical applications happening in Victorian society which brought changes in women's position and dress.
		At the start of the Victorian era most fashions lasted about a decade, but mass communications and mass production both improved so much that by 1901 fashion was moving in a yearly cycle.
		Compared to eras where the dating of dresses can be confusing the Romantic Era has quite definite periods of style variations that make it fairly easy to date garments to within a few years.
	www.hip-haute.com /victorian.htm (1500 words)

	Commonly Held Misconceptions About Historic Costume (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-21)
		Dress reform movements of the late nineteenth century criticized the need for corsets and promoted loose comfortable clothing.
		Victorians tended to look down on cosmetics as unclean in their "fetish for cleanliness."[9] Cosmetics were used surreptitiously by respectable women wanting to improve their appearance.
		Though the shapes and details of this form of dress are feminine by today's standards, people living at the time would not confuse these boys for girls, nor would a parent be appalled at the idea of someone thinking their infant son was a little girl or vice versa.
	www.clotheslinejournal.com /victorian.myths.html (3679 words)

	Civilization.ca - Before e-commerce - Dress reform and mail order
		When dress reform activists objected to the restrictions posed by this type of clothing, clothing manufacturers and mail-order companies adapted by making and selling new, healthy woollen underclothing.
		Dress reform associations were established in the United States, Britain, Germany, and other European countries, where concerned members discussed and promoted alternate styles of dress.
		There were no formal dress reform associations in Victorian Canada, so it was the physicians and, in particular, the newly trained gynaecologists, who were most prominent in the discussion of dress reform.
	www.civilization.ca /cpm/catalog/cat2203e.html (1692 words)

	The Aesthetic Dress Movement, Part II
		The Rational Dress Society was formed in 1881 as an outgrowth of an article written by Viscountess Haberton and published in the Queen advocating the divided skirt.
		The preface to the Rational Dress Association’s 1883 exhibition catalogue outlines the goals of the society as ‘[promoting] and [encouraging] dress reform among men and women’.
		Exhibit twenty-four was an example of an ‘Hygienic Dress’, designed by Madame Lousia Beak of 24 Connaught Street, London, which boasted ‘an elegant appearance while retaining...several advantages; the weight of the garment was halved for the trouser covers the body fully and evenly...thereby (reducing) the layers of clothing’.
	www.suite101.com /article.cfm/victorian_art/59100 (475 words)

	The Victorian Era (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-21)
		The Victorian era is generally agreed to stretch through the reign of Queen Victoria (1837-1901).
		The dress of the early Victorian era was similar to the the Georgian age.
		As stated in the beginning, the Victorian Age was an extremely diverse and complex period.
	www.victoriaspast.com /FrontPorch/victorianera.htm (1109 words)

	Where Have All the Corsets Gone? by Cathy Taylor
		After the Industrial Revolution, when the rising middle classes gained some excess income and leisure, their first thought was not to relax on the beach; it was to live and dress with all the grandeur and all the limitations of aristocrats of former centuries.
		Said an 1886 booklet on The Dress Reform Problem: “A distinction should be made between actual and corset measurements, because stays, as ordinarily worn, do not meet at the back...Young girls, especially, derive intense satisfaction from proclaiming the diminutive size of their corset [sic].
		Victorians gave up swaddling, but still swathed children of both sexes in various stay-bands, heavy underwaists and rudimentary corsets during formative years.
	www.victoriana.com /corsets/corseting.htm (1946 words)

	VICTORIAN CORSETS: "Laces, Hooks, and Boa Constrictors"
		Many Victorian finishing schools not only ensured a course of constantly increased tight-lacing for their lucky students, they also kept them on very short rations so that they would not grow unattractively big and robust.
		Victorian doctors and anatomists claimed the difference between men and women was so great that they even breathed differently: men with the abdomen (as you probably are right now), women with the thorax.
		Many dress reformers (who had gone through the process themselves) advised getting an athletic corset, and then removing the bones or steels one by one, every couple of weeks, allowing the muscles to develop before finally abandoning the cloth compression months later.
	www.victoriancorsets.de /infos/enews3.htm (1026 words)

	Women's History
		Despite all of this dissatisfaction, dress reform was a dangerous topic.
		The most famous dress reform of the day was the "bloomer." Source
		One of her more known contributions was her involvement of dress reform.
	www.louisville.edu /~tawils04/576/project9 (1116 words)

	The Aesthetic Dress Movement, Part I
		E.W. Godwin’s comment on fashion design points to the main concerns of the dress reformers of the late nineteenth century, a time when fashion designers attempted to construct and decorate the female body in such a way which would meet the requirements of both fashion and a sensible lifestyle.
		Godwin’s analogy of dress being a necessity on a par with shelter is appropriate.
		The reforms suggested by them may be examined in terms of economy and utility and, at times, even simplicity.
	www.suite101.com /article.cfm/victorian_art/58651 (598 words)

	Comfortable Womens Dress Shoes
		Victorian dress reform - During the middle and late Victorian period, various reformers proposed, designed, and wore clothing supposedly more rational and comfortable than the fashions of the time.
		This was known as the dress reform or rational dress movement.
		Womens Dress Shoes Size 13 - Womens Dress Shoes Size 13 In Her Shoes The bestselling "In Her Shoes"--soon to be a major motion picture by Fox 2000 starring Cameron Diaz, Toni Collette, womens dress shoes size 13 and Shirley MacLaine--is now available in paperback.
	www.walkeralls.com /comfortablewomensdressshoes.html (841 words)

	Haile: Venus "Would Have Worn Stays:" Classical Imagery in Victorian Dress Reform
		Reformers, in contrast, did not believe in wearing corsets, which they believed injured women medically and morally.
		Dress reformers contrasted images of the fashionable corseted female form with the torso of the Venus de Milo, claiming that corsetry caused a distortion of the natural female beauty that Venus represented.
		Both traditional and reform fashion were influenced by Classical imagery; reformers took their inspiration from freely flowing draperies, while the fashionable inclined more towards the 'Grecian Bend,' a silhouette supposedly modeled on postures found in Greek vase paintings.
	www.camws.org /meeting/2006/abstracts/haile.html (505 words)

	Pre-Raphaelite Ideals and Artistic Dress
		Artistic dress was eventually taken up by actresses, and by fashionable, wealthy ladies who enjoyed giving the impression that they were intimately involved in the arts.
		It should be noted, however, that the general dress reform movement was supported by a conglomeration of many different ideological groups, including health advocates and feminists.
		As were the Victorians in their day, we are often overwhelmed by our own progress, disappointed by the mass production of inferior goods, and yearning for a past when beauty was as important as utility in the objects of daily life.
	www.glily.com /preraphs.htm (2043 words)

	Victorian Literature
		Dictionary of Victorian London: Designed and maintained by Lee Jackson, an author and librarian, the Victorian Dictionary is a useful resource on Victorian London history during the 19th century.
		Changes During the Victorian Age: If you were born in the early nineteenth century, you were in for a big surprise: by 1900 the world you had grown up in was gone for good.
		Victorian Technology: Victorian society was transformed by engineering ingenuity and entrepreneurial prowess, with the most striking advances made in the field of communication.
	www.d.umn.edu /~csigler/Victorian.html (7139 words)

	Entertainment - Product Page
		Even the women's dress restricted her arm movement, which aided in the idea that women were helpless and vulnerable.
		The skirt portion of the dress became wider, and sometimes heavy material (horsehair woven in) was used to give the dome shape.
		She was part of the Rational Dress Reform, which was a reform that argued that women were acceptable in trousers.
	www-scf.usc.edu /~cintron/victorian.html (513 words)

	NYT Archives Article (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-10-21)
		But the notion that the enemy can be identified by his clothes is an especially comforting one in the realm of politics, since it's a lot easier to get people to change their clothes than to change their minds.
		Indeed, the reformers who recently persuaded the Iranian government that girls should be permitted to wear pastels in addition to dark colors had to give reasons relating to the girls' physical and mental health.
		And in France, hygiene is given as the reason for an intriguing swimming-pool dress code: men must wear skin-tight Speedos rather than baggy swimming trunks to swim in most public pools.
	www.poppolitics.com /articles/ilinks/miniskirts.shtml (1114 words)

	Victorian London - Crime - Prostitution - reform of prostitutes
		Notwithstanding the most constant and self-denying exertions of the managers of these institutions, comparatively few fallen women come under their cognizance, and of these very few are permanently reformed.
		Sudden reformation is again one of those popular delusions that I must expose.
		I therefore do not advocate the establishment of penitentiaries on a large scale, but by line upon line, and precept upon precept, here a little and there a little', good may be done to these unfortunate outcasts.
	www.victorianlondon.org /crime/reformofprostitutes.htm (4932 words)

	1914-1920 Towards Dress Reform in 1920s Fashion History
		In the years between 1905 and 1918 clothing styles emerged that were evolutionary in bridging the gap between the rigid formality of the Edwardian styles and the ultimate changes that led to the knee high dresses of 1926.
		This was all fast forwarded during the war years and led to the major changes in construction of clothes and undergarments for the remainder of the century.
		This era from 1905 to 1915 was particularly important in eroding attitudes to dress which had been stuck in the rigidity of the Victorian era for too long.
	www.fashion-era.com /1914_1920_towards_dress_reform2.htm (1421 words)

	Annie Jenness Miller, Dress Reform
		Annie Jenness Miller, a famous lecturer and author on the subject of dress reform, was the editor of the alternative dress magazine Dress.
		This gown form is a waist and skirt combined, fitting the body smoothly without great tub-ness in the lower part, yet so arranged in shape that graceful drapery can be formed upon it, and the weight evenly supported by each member upon which it rests.
		Upon this correct foundation dresses of various styles of drapery and trimming can be adapted, and as the popular taste is educated to higher artistic forms, perfect detail will be added to perfect healthfulness.
	www.vintageconnection.net /AJMiller.htm (1082 words)

	Illinois During the Gilded Age, Lesson Plans: Dress Reform in the 19th Century
		Students will analyze the issue of dress reform from one of a variety of viewpoints, and condense these views into a letter to the editor of a 19th century periodical.
		Taking all of the issues raised in the readings into consideration, have the group compose a letter to the editor of a fashion magazine in support of dress reform, using examples from the readings to support their arguments.
		Additional documents from the Dress Reform movement are available at http://womhist.binghamton.edu/dress/doclist.htm.
	dig.lib.niu.edu /gildedage/teachers/lesson2-dress.html (615 words)

	The Spectacular Female Body: Dress, Fashion and Modernity in Victorian Women's Magazines
		According to followers of fashion, the dress reformers sought to make women manly, and it was against this charge that the reformers had to fight.
		Artistic dress was classical in influence and was characterised by smooth lines, oriental patterns and the use of muted vegetable dyes as an alternative to the bright aniline dyes of the 1850s.
		However, artistic dress was not rational dress and, although related to some degree and comparably comfortable, the rational-dress movement was a far more radical attack, not just on definitions of fashion, but also on the wider implications that restricted dress, as they saw it, had on women's lives.
	www.fathom.com /course/21701733/session2.html (714 words)

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