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Topic: Wave cut platform


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In the News (Tue 18 Nov 08)

  
  Coastal Studies Template
a cliff formed by wave erosion, usu at the landward portion of a wave-cut platform; commonly the landward limit of the shorezone and the dominant feature of mountainous coastlines.
It extends from the depth where waves move sediment, landward to the highest point acted upon by waves during storms, and includes the shorerise and the beach or shore.
the area traversed by breaking waves and their bores and swash; it extends from the wave breakpoints to the maximum runup of the swash.
earthguide.ucsd.edu /coastalchange/ur7_glossary/s.html   (637 words)

  
 Cross section from Highway to Mono Lake
"The waves of a rising lake thus create a relatively broad platform that, depending on the erodibility of the substrate, may widen until the transgression ceases." (Stine, 1992, p.7) The lowest wave cut that you see in the profile is from the 6385.1 foot highstand in 1999.
The next one is at 6390 feet and was cut during wet years in 1967 and 1969.
Wave energy will also be greater than now due to a larger lake surface.
www.monolake.org /caltrans/xc.htm   (868 words)

  
 [No title]   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-11-07)
It should be noted that the water in waves does not move very far, but that waves are a means of transporting energy from one place to another.
Waves are also refracted as they approach coasts that are not straight (or when they approach these coasts at an angle).
A- Erosional features: 1- Wave cut cliff 2- Wave cut platform: Is an almost flat or very gently sloping surface eroded by the constant action of the waves, and may extend beyond the high tide limit as it forms by the combined action of tides and surges (Fig.
www.utm.edu /departments/artsci/ggp/faculty/ElShazly/111CourseNotes/BEACH.DOC   (1158 words)

  
 OFR 94-2 Cascadia beach-shoreline database
In Washington and northern Oregon the wave cut platform is generally composed of either semi-consolidated Pleistocene deposits or older Tertiary mudstones or sandstones.
The elevation of the Holocene wave-cut platform or the basal gravel layer (Platform Depth, m MTL) is given to the nearest 0.5 m relative to MTL.
The elevation of the wave cut platform is taken at the mid-beach face position, i.e., at the surface profile intersection with 0 m MTL.
nwdata.geol.pdx.edu /DOGAMI/OF-94-02/OF-94-02.html   (8868 words)

  
 Hunting - Glossary - Discover The Outdoors   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-11-07)
Where waves are present on the beach, this line is also known as the limit of backrush.
The small net forward displacement of water in the direction of the wave travel, particularly in waves of large amplitude, so that the orbits are not quite closed, and the water, while in the crests, moves slightly further forward than it moves backward while in the troughs.
Wave trains are not composed of waves of equal heights and periods, but rather of heights and periods which vary in a statistical manner.
www.dto.com /hunting/glossary/index.jsp?startwith=w   (1578 words)

  
 Coastal Erosion Landforms
As the platform widens the waves break further out to sea so they have to travel over a wider area and so the energy is dissipated therefore erosion at the headland is reduced.
Instead wave energy is used for attrition to reduce the size of debris on the platform.
A cave is formed by a wave cut notch eroded backwards and side wards to form a cave by hydraulic action and abrasion.
www.revision-notes.co.uk /revision/700.html   (528 words)

  
 Amateur Geologist Structured Geological Glossary: The Ocean Shorline
A current that moves parallel to a shore and is formed from the momentum of breaking wave that approach the shore obliquely.
A gently sloping surface produced by wave erosion, extending far into the sea or lake from the base of the wave cut cliff.
An elongate organic reef that parallels a coastline and is large enough to dissipate ocean wave, leaving a quiet-water lagoon on its landward side.
www.amateurgeologist.com /content/glossary/ocean/shoreline.html   (646 words)

  
 A Gap in Time
This page is headed "A Gap in Time", because this time elapse is clearly visible in the photograph of the wave-cut platform and in the photograph of the cliff.
The level shore platform has been carved by wave action across the rocky coastline during the past few thousand years.
Wave erosion has progressively undercut the cliff causing layers of rock to fall off.
www.geocities.com /lorrainefildes/a_gap_in_time.htm   (409 words)

  
 Raised beach - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Raised beaches are a beaches or wave cut platforms raised above the shore line by a relative fall in the sea level.
This could be due to an actual fall in the water level such as may be caused by the partial draining of a lake or a river cutting its way into a deeper channel.
More frequently a raised beach is formed when tectonic activity, such as earthquakes which cause the level of the land to rise.
en.wikipedia.org /wiki/Raised_beach   (147 words)

  
 OCEANS and SHORELINES   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-11-07)
Waves are generated by friction of winds on water surface.
Surf - when waves move into shallow water and the depth decreases to below one-half wave length, the sea bottom is stirred up (erosion), causing wave movement to be slowed by friction.
Wave Refraction = the bending of waves as they approach the shoreline and are slowed down by drag on the sea floor.
geoggeol.wku.edu /awulff/111/Oceans.html   (432 words)

  
 BAY NATURE: Read the Landscape, July-Sept 2001
The flat bench is a marine terrace, a surface carved long ago by the action of waves at sea level and later uplifted to its present position.
Waves, washing ceaselessly back and forth where land and ocean meet, grind up the underlying rock and erode back the cliff face.
When melange at the coast is struck repeatedly by the waves, the matrix is easily washed away, leaving the more resistant blocks standing in the ocean as sea stacks.
www.baynature.com /2001summer/rtl_sum2001.html   (1580 words)

  
 Coastal Studies Template   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-11-07)
the depth at which wave action no longer stirs sediments.
the prevailing seasonal wave conditions incident to a particular coastal segment averaged over a period of time, preferably several years, within each decadal climate regime.
a wave erosion feature at the coastline consisting of a sea cliff and a seaward sloping wave-cut platform.
coastalchange.ucsd.edu /ur7_glossary/w.html   (91 words)

  
 wave-cut platform
Covered by water at high tide but exposed at low tide, it represents the last remnant of an eroded headland (see coastal erosion).
Wave-cut platforms have a gentle gradient (usually less than 1°) and can be up to about 1 km/0.6 mi in length.
Over time, wave-cut platforms are lengthened and protect the cliffs behind them.
www.tiscali.co.uk /reference/encyclopaedia/hutchinson/m0035493.html   (251 words)

  
 GEO 2200 - Physical Geography
Near the shore, waves of transition begin to "feel bottom" and, as a result, the orbits of the water molecules in the wave become more _______.
Wave action works to straighten a coast as wave energy focuses around headlands and tends to disperse energy in coves and bays in a process called
The energy of waves striking a headland that protrudes into the sea is ________ than that which strikes the beaches adjacent to it because _______.
www.clas.ufl.edu /users/mbinford/geo2200/lecture_questions/2004_questions/lecture_33_2004_quest_waves_beaches_barriers.html   (436 words)

  
 Glossary of Terms: W
A rock recess at the foot of a sea cliff where the energy of water waves is concentrated.
This process is caused by the differential reduction of water depth as a linear wave approaches a curved shoreline.
A reduction in water depth causes a wave to slow down causing the waves approaching a nonlinear shoreline to curve with the shore's shape.
www.physicalgeography.net /physgeoglos/w.html   (854 words)

  
 GLOSSARY OF TERMS FOR SUBAQUEOUS SOILS
Sediment is carried through temporary overwash channels that cut through the dune complex on the barrier spit (Fisher and Simpson, 1979; Boothroyd et al., 1985; Davis, 1994) and spill out onto the lagoon-side platform where they coalesce to form a broad belt.
Wave-cut Platform: A gently sloping surface produced by wave erosion, extending into the sea or lake from the base of the wave-cut cliff.
Wave-built Terrace: A gently sloping coastal feature at the seaward or lakeward edge of a wave-cut platform, constructed by sediment brought by rivers or drifted along the shore or across the platform and deposited in the deeper water beyond (Jackson, 1997).
nesoil.com /sas/glossary.htm   (2720 words)

  
 ESPED Fieldsites - Spain
Shore platforms appear only along the unexposed Tramuntana coastal sections, however, to the SE both subtidal and supratidal wave-storm platforms do occur.
The platforms are generally subhorizontal (Type B according to Sunamura, 1992), and narrow.
A narrow shore platform is also present with a well developed trottoir; a wave-storm platform also exists.
www.sussex.ac.uk /ESPED/fieldsites-spain.html   (501 words)

  
 Vocabulary   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-11-07)
wave height - The height from the trough to the crest of a wave
For example, waves you see at the beach are waves of translation.
wave refraction - The bending of the direction of travel of a wave due to a change in wave velocity.
www.csun.edu /~khurst/Geo101/Vocabulary/shore.html   (436 words)

  
 Chap_StudyGuide.html
Describe the motion of water in a wind-generated wave
Explain how wave refraction alters the form of a coastline.
Describe the stages in the evolution of a sea cliff and wave-cut platform.
physics.nku.edu /gly/Chap15_StudyGuide.html   (98 words)

  
 Essentials of Geology : Chapter 15 : Overview   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-11-07)
Waves are another one of those topics that you should be careful not to skim over too lightly, for the author presents more than the average landlubber would believe there is to know about waves.
You read about their causes and geometric shapes and nomenclature, including the terms “wave base,” “strength and fetch of a wind,” “ripples,” “swells,” “amplitude and wavelength of a wave,” “breakers and surf zones,” “swash and backwash,” “effects on embayments and headlands,” “longshore currents,” and “rip currents.”
Here wave erosion may produce wave-cut notches, cliff retreat, wave platforms (benches), honeycomb-weathering patterns, sea arches, and sea stacks.
www.wwnorton.com /earth/egeo/overview/ch15.htm   (844 words)

  
 coasts.html   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-11-07)
water becomes shallow, wave height increases because wave length decreases
if waves arrive at an angle, one part is slower than the rest
waves arrive at a coast at an angle (swash)
home.cc.umanitoba.ca /~benbow/coasts.html   (153 words)

  
 BBC Scotland - Where I Live - Nigg Bay and the Balnagask Headland
The lighthouse, designed by Robert Stevenson, grandfather of the writer - Robert Louis Stevenson, is still an important navigation mark for ships entering the harbour.
A wave-cut platform extends right around the Girdleness peninsula, making the water deceptively shallow to unwary seafarers.
The lighthouse was finally built in 1833 to alert ships to the danger of this wave-cut platform.
www.bbc.co.uk /scotland/whereilive/northeast/walk/07.shtml   (231 words)

  
 Glossary
The vertical distance between a wave crest and the preceding trough.
The interval of time required for a wave crest to travel a distance equal to one wavelength; the interval of time required for two successive wave crests to pass a fixed point.
In sea waves, as a wave approaches a shore obliquely, part of it reaches the shallow water near the shore while the rest is still advancing in deeper water; the part of the wave in the shallower water moves more slowly than the part in the deeper water.
imnh.isu.edu /digitalatlas/glossary/letter.asp?letter=W   (422 words)

  
 S_A_Geology_Hallett1
With these words, the Department of Mines and Energy have introduced the Hallett Cove Geological Trail to Geologists, Geology students and the general public of Australia for the purposes of study, research and plain enjoyment of the natural surroundings.
A major proportion of the important geological events that have taken place in South Australia can be studied in the area, including faults, folds, unconformities, synclines, anticlines, erosion, deposition, wave-cut platforms and evidence of glaciation.
This has produced the present cliffs, wave-cut platform, beach, and badlands landscape of the Amphitheatre.
www.angelfire.com /rock3/rickirving/S_A_Geology_Hallett1.html   (863 words)

  
 Coastal Landforms Multiple Choice Quiz, Physical Geography, College of Alameda   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-11-07)
Wave motion dies out in open water at a depth equal to half a wavelength.
As waves approach a shore they slow down.
In the open sea, the wave form moves forward but not the water molecules.
members.aol.com /rhaberlin/csquiz.htm   (355 words)

  
 Nearshore wave-induced cyclical flexing of sea cliffs
Evolution of a tectonically active coast is driven by geomorphically destructive energy supplied by ocean waves.
Wave energy is episodic and concentrated; sea cliffs are battered by the geomorphic wrecking ball every 4–25 s.
We measure the response of sea cliffs to wave assault by sensing the ground motion using near-coastal seismometers.
www.agu.org /pubs/crossref/2005/2004JF000217.shtml   (329 words)

  
 OCEAN WAVES AND COASTLINES   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-11-07)
Period – time it takes for adjacent wave to reach position of preceding wave at "zero time".
Wave-cut platform – also called berm, a flat, level surface on rock cut by waves
Platform reef – also known as patch reef; form in isolated patches on continental shelf, shallow
www.wiu.edu /users/mfdfh/owaves.htm   (407 words)

  
 EPIC - Geologic Features Collection: Shorelines Set I
Decrease in wavelength as waves approach a shoreline, Olympic Peninsula, WA.
Waves approaching a shoreline obliquely, NW of Oceanside, CA.
Spit building seaward toward an island as a result of the wave refraction pattern set up by the island.
earthweb.ess.washington.edu /EPIC/Geologic/Shorelines1   (250 words)

  
 lect.opml   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-11-07)
Wave energy determines their capacity for erosion and sediment motion
Waves cease to be symmetrical and sinusoidal and become asymmetrical and solitary
Is the spatial concentration of Energy in Waves affected by the shape of a Shoreline?
piru.alexandria.ucsb.edu /lecture?xl=sPw&page=lecture10   (520 words)

  
 Emerged sea stack and wave-cut platform, Western Newfoundland: Newfoundland and Labrador Heritage   (Site not responding. Last check: 2007-11-07)
About 13000 years ago, the margin of the Newfoundland ice sheet had retreated inland from Gulf of St. Lawrence and sea level stood about 27 m higher than present.
Wave action at that time produced a sea stack (foreground) and cut a rock platform on the headlands (far left).
Melting of the ice sheet allowed the land to rebound from the sea, leaving the shore features high and dry.
www.heritage.nf.ca /environment/stack.html   (98 words)

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